Following on from this thread
I now have my new valve shims to insert but the manual states that before doing so, I should make a 50/50 mix of engine oil and molybdenum disulphide grease and apply to each of them.
Now I only have lithium moly grease.
Is this good enough or do I go for what’s stated?
Thanks.
I used Joe Gibbs Engine Assembly Grease
Got it off this ebay seller ebay do dah here
More than enough to do your shims mix 50:50 with engine oil in an old jam jar or whatever you have and apply sparingly with a medium fitch
Note the 50:50 assembly grease/engine oil dissolves very easily into the engine oil on first start up.
Not so if you use the Lithium Moly grease, also possibly a risk of blocking the oil ways :w00t:
Thanks Art…Very useful
I really don’t understand the grease bit. I can just about accept that it hangs on a bit until the engine oil gets to recirculate, but then you are left with grease contaminated engine oil.
All sounds utter borrocks to me. I’d just use whatever engine oil I intend to use after the valve job.
Anyone want to explain the grease bit to be?
I thought the same, but since it’s cheaper than chips thought I’d give it a try and found it does what it does. It’s the modern way oldguy.
Just use engine oil if you want, however when you mix it 50:50 with assembly grease it tends to stay where you put it until the first start up. After the first start up and when the normal oil flow/pressure gets under way it readily dissolves into the engine oil, that’s about 8ml of assembly grease dissolving into about 4L of engine oil, which will be neither here nor there in terms of viscosity.
Note the 50:50 mix of engine oil/assembly grease is more like a thick sticky oil than a blob of axle grease.
Hmmm so why not just pour oil over the said components in place etc …
leave rocker cover off … pouroil on … start … pour little bit more oil … loosely place cover on… run briefly … check all … rebuild …
you don’t grease them up after a oil drain
but hey it aint my engine
hmmm also if yourrechecking clearances after rebuild the grease will give a false reading until it dissipates into theoil
You can do Tim, my preference is to use a 50:50 assembly grease/engine oil mix to give every mating surface a goodly coating of lube prior to assembly, that way there is absolutely no chance of any metal to metal contact on first start up.
False readings shouldn’t be a problem, when measuring clearances before and immediately after a rebuild you’re not comparing like for like. Less than accurate clearance readings immediately after assembly are more likely to be caused by components not having had an opportunity to bed in, especially if shims have been replaced. New shims need a little running in. However, it is worthwhile to be aware that a goodly coating of 50:50 assembly grease/engine oil may give a less than accurate reading, a goodly coating of just engine oil will, probably to a lesser degree, also give a less than accurate reading.
The critical clearance measurement is taken prior to the strip down when the engine has been left, preferable overnight to completely cool down, note leaving the engine overnight also allows much of the oil lubricating the shims/buckets to drain, therefore allowing a more accurate critical cold measurement to be obtained.
ps - leaving the valve cover off the Bonne’ and starting the engine will result in a massive oil loss and a goodly coating of engine oil over everything and anything within a 2 Metre radius.
