So the clutch has finally gone in my 2005 Volvo S40 2.0D. Pedal welded to the carpet. A private specialist will charge about £2K to replace it. (Although we don’t know whether it needs a new clutch or just some parts replaced). Has anyone any experience here or a recommendation for an independent mechanic? The car is currently beached on my driveway and it’s not urgent. Would need recovery to a shop or someone to come here. The car is worth about £1K but I like it.
Might pick up a Citroen C2 to tie me over for a bit.
Hi. I recently had a replacement clutch in my Fulvia…..
Was the clutch slipping before it went? I ask because it could be a hydraulic problem rather than the clutch itself. If so probably much cheaper to fix.
If it has gone and you need a replacement clutch kit would you consider doing it yourself? There are probably YouTube videos on the subject…..and I suggest this as someone who replaced his clutch on the drive. Was far and away the biggest mechanical job I’ve ever done, but bought huge satisfaction when it all went back together. DIY will also save a chunk of cash, to be spent on motorcycles of course.
Wasn’t slipping at all which is why I suspect it’s a hydraulic problem. Biting point suddenly dropped then it was fully engaged with the pedal flat on the floor.
I’m thinking of getting an independent to look at it. I don’t think its the plates as they’ve felt fine for ages and I don’t drive it much.
I’m not that skilled mechanically but I’d imagine its not impossible as you arr just swapping parts out.
Unfortunately nothing is as simple as it used to be. Many years ago (over 20) I changed clutches on cars taking the gearbox out then refitting it no problem. When my wife’s Mini clutch went recently the fork had snapped. This is a picture of what the garage has to remove to get to the clutch.
Oh lord. I was watching a YouTube video about how to change the master cylinder on a V70. 10 minutes in he was still removing parts that were just in the way.
Thanks. I’ll look them up. I’ve seen other similar posts on the forum, with dealers quoting £1,200 and them getting it done for £600. There is a local independent who is going to come back to me. They may just change the master cylinder as it seems that, that’s what’s gone. I may just get the clutch replaced anyway, I’ll see what they quote. The Volvo parts are apparently hard to come by but the Engine is a Ford / Peugeot lump so the parts can’t be that hard to come by.
I could consider something newer but I’d rather just keep driving it. It’s was running well before this happened, the DPF needs a clean though. In the last two years it has new track rod ends, bushes, disks and pads all round, front shocks and a new boot wiring loom. Seems daft to scrap all that.
With my Mazda 6, I used a ford/mazda tool on my laptop using an ODB2 reader to run a DPF cycle manually. Basically it sits for half an hour on a high idle to heat up the DPF first, then do the burn off. Tool is called Forscan, might work with Volvo’s that have a Ford engine.
Friend of mine had a low-mileage Xtype, needed a new fuel pump. There’s no access panel under the rear seat like in most cars, so the tank has to come out the bottom of the car. Which means removing the whole rear subframe and axle, and the exhaust. He scrapped it.
I bought a similar tool but it wouldn’t force a regen because there was an ash build up code on the DPF. A full clean with chemicals is supposed to be better in the long run. I knew nothing about DPFs when I bought the car. There are Euro 3 versions that don’t have a DPF. I’d have bought one of those if I knew.
I was stuck out in Devon with a blocked DPF once. Cost something like £400 for a guy to come out and flush it. Worth every penny compared to being recovered home! On the driveway, not so much.
I couldn’t buy another diesel. I think it was ok at the start when I was doing 90 miles a day but as a town car it’s just problematic. My dad had a 1.8 petrol S40 and I could have got one of those and had no DPF issues. I just fancied the 2.0D for some reason. You live and learn I guess.
The worst thing is Diesels are relatively simple and reliable lumps until you start bolting on all this extra emission stuff. And you can’t legally remove a DPF. People do but you can get into trouble for doing so.
It’s been recovered now and on the way to a garage. AA chap suspects burst slave cylinder. If that’s it, it could be a relatively cheap fix. The actual clutch felt fine, wasn’t slipping or anything so maybe I’ll get another 30,000 miles down the road (30 years of motoring with my current mileage) before it needs more attention.
If the slave cylinder is in the clutch bell housing (as many are), its a clutch off to repalace’/rebuild the slave cylinder. A problem i might be having with the van
Just Googled and that’s where it is. No wonder lots of garages didn’t call me back. May aswell replace the clutch then if it all has to come out. Why would you put it there? I’m sure on an 80s pickup truck it’s somewhere accessible.
