hi guys,anybody in the tottenham court road area with a batery optimiser/ charger?
bike won’t start it is makin a clicking start and it won’t turn over…
i’ve called t recovery team, but they will take about 2 hour
if you can help call alex on 07843********
IF YOU CAN HELP CHEERS, if not don’t worry about it
can’t you bump start it?key in ignition, 2nd gear selected, clutch in, run along side, hop on seat, let clutch out… jobs a good un’
you’re supposed to do it in 2nd? oops, done it each time in 1st…
if there is someone else there with you, its easier balance wise to be sat on the bike and paddle it along with them giving you a push, then sit down heavily on the bike as you drop the clutch and give it a blip so that the rear tyre gets traction (otherwise the clutch will just lock up the rear and you’ll skid)
optimiser wont do it in a reasonable time frame (learnt this from experience). if you’re not bump starting it, you’ll need jump leads to a another direct battery on someones bike (that hopefully has a decent charge in it).
its unlikely but if you have an alarm on there it ‘could’ be that. try arming, setting off the alarm and disarming it
cehhers,
sos came & jumped it, felt like a right twat…need to learn these little tricks…
thanks sos man ( forgot yoyr name, sorry). he’s also a member here.
And charge up that battery tonight!
need to buy a charger…
You do indeed, and you’ll bless it for the rest of your life!
For bike batteries the Optimate III is the canine’s cajones. http://www.accumate.co.uk/it010003.html
A pair of jumps leads might be a good wheeze as well if you can carry them conveniently.
You also have to work out why your battery wasn’t in tip-top condition. Too many short journeys? If a conventional battery, is each cell filled correctly? When did you last check the voltage readings across the battery at a) idle, b) 3000rpm?
This time of year when it is cold for longer is when the weak spots of susceptible electrics are exposed, often at the most inconvenient moments. Avoidance is best!
this is not the first time this has happened to this bike. ive only had 6 months & its happened maybe 7/8 times.
the last time i took it to my garage & when he put one of the lead om the frame sparks shot of the bloody thing. & he couldnt get it to start.
next day phoned the place where i bought it & when thet come to pick it up it started perfectly…mmmmm!! he kept it over night, said it was fine.
think there is something wrong with the wiring somewhere but they couldnt find it…or didnt really look.
alaways the same, one min its fine, the next nothing.
i feel ya kempo…
k6 is in the bike shop right now becouse of electrics…went to overtake on the M25 thec other day…and she just cut mid manuvour…still had the throttle wide open and she started again and the front went skyward at 80 mph…lol…
little bells started ringin after that…so in she went…its been 3 days now…wonder of they’ve found anything…?..and it better be under warranty…
im gonna be nosey tomorrow i think;)
smiled:D.
ok no probs mate there is a knack to bump starting bikes…
cheers
sos lee
I had probs with my battery after getting my bike. Would start OK from cold but trying to start it very soon after stopping it, the starter would turn a couple of times and die (along with the lights).
Tried bump starting it once and all it did was make the biggest bang you’ve ever heard - birds flying out of trees, all the neighbours at their windows and doors. Managed to get some jump leads and start it from my car battery, then rode to get a new battery. Have had no problems since (touch wood).
haha dont worry, its just something you learn how to do. you’ll prob find a lot of people havent’ had to jump start a bike before. jonesy showed me how to do it (didn’t work so well on the shiny carpark surface eh mate?)cold weather doesn’t help batteries retain their charge and as Jim mentioned short journeys are a bit of a killer. takes a fair bit of draw to crank a cold bike over, then there is the alarm/anything else you have running on the bike, plus the lights and so on.
It shouldnt’ be necessary to put the battery on charge daily, but its not a bad idea to hook it up once a week to keep it in good condition.
the optimate comes with a battery clip extention that you can feed through to the tail so you dont have to remove the main seat each time to hook it up.
do you ride every day? have you checked your relays etc? could have a short somewhere which is discharging the battery. look for corrosion and powdery shite on your relay connectors. wanna get some vaseline on em too to displace any moisture that may build up. did you get the breakdown man to check if it’s charging correctly? could be your regulator rectifier. i think your best bet is get a new battery (should be about £30?) and see how you go. chances are if this has happened a few times the battery’s probably shagged anyway and the cold’ll just kill it off. if you have the problem again after a new battery it may be the regulator rectifier if there isn’t a short anywhere or summink else?
these guys are pretty good - http://www.2ndbite.com/shop/
good luck with it all
Im pretty sure its a short somewhere.
last time i got a voltage reading it waslow at idle & wouldnt rise. thats the time the fram sprked & i took it back to the shop.
ive tried new batt & i dont think its rhe rec.
it seems that somewhere in the wires there may be something wrong.
is it a big job to check all the wiring?
Fk fK fk ST FK BOL*KSARRRRRRRRRRRRR!!!
i had the same prob with my cbr f. & i thought hondas were reliable…
oh yeah! i ride it every day, alot of short journeys. around town.
around town average about 70 mph…only joking…
i guess i need to get it on the open rd more.
It’s a Honda…That’s what’s wrong with the electrics / wiring :laugh:Just joking mate…How old is the bike and has the battery ever been replaced…Mine is starting to give up the ghost on my R1, but its given almost 5 years of its life…Think that’s about average battery life for sealed batteries.Honda’s are known to eat their regulator rectifiers too so that may be worth checking for any corrosian and replace if required…Was it you who PMed me about this a while ago…Can’t remember :unsure:Hope you sort it out…Sometimes, bump starting won’t always work in my experience.My R1 wouldn’t start at all on Monday…Dead battery…Bumped it (2nd / 3rd gear is easier as there is less compression or something so the wheel turns easier)…Still wouldn’t start…Jump leads connected to my dad’s car…Still it wouldn’t start.In the end I had to go into work by train…Charged the battery overnight and the bike finally would start the next morning
it only 2 years old
my 2p:
other what the previous have said, have you changed your oil recently?
When it gets old and sludgy it makes it harder to shift round the block, which just adds extra strain getting it to start from cold.
Give that man a banana…Would never have thought of that
In the winter, the oil will be more viscous at the start due to cold so that’ll make it harder to run through the engine even if new right?
The idea of using a multigrade oil is that it stays the same viscosity throughout a certain range of ambient temperatures… ie. In summer and winter:cool:
Does that actually work in practice monkey?
