Does it matter if I don’t know the brand of the brake fluid that is currently in the bike?
As long as I top the fluid up with the correct type, does it matter that I don’t know what the brand is?
The instruction book says that if I don’t know the brand that I should change the brake fluid completely, is this correct?
not sure, but if the brake fluid hasnt been changed recenlty why not replace it all together?
Would love to, but don’t know how, or what bits I would need to do this.
Bike is usually serviced by a Kwak dealer, so I’m sure the brake fluid has been changed in the past
Personally I wouldn’t worry about the brand - as long as it’s the same rating e.g. dot 4 (and this is what your service book recommends) it should be ok. Just my opinion - unless anyone knows better. (I mix brands and have never had any problems).Just make sure you cover exposed paintwork when you top it up. Also tie a rag around the bottom of the master cylinder to absorb any overspill.
Also check your brake system as a whole to make sure that the level has not gone down as the result of a leak etc.
also check pad wear, the system is designed so that as the pads wear, more fluid is needed in the lines to push the pistons.
lever the pads back into the caliper and see if the level rises to the top mark, if it does, its normal pad wear.
if you top up without checking this, the next time you come to fit pads, you wont be able to get enough piston back into the caliper for the new thicker pads to fit, and you’ll have to bleed off a load
And I thought that this was going to be an easy job.
As I have never done anything like this, does anyone fancy helping me?
I’m free Wednesday evening and anytime on Saturday.
it is an easy job, just top it up.
check yer pads at same time and if worn do it after anyway.
if fluid in resevoir is dirty etc then yes flush it through with new fluid.
Agreed, easy job to top up, but how do you check the wear on the pads?
looking at them 
there should be a small gap in them
you want that to still be visable
The slots cut into the pads in Pan’s pic are pad wear indicators - when you are down to the end of one or all of the slots you need to renew your pads.
The slots cut into the pads in Pan’s pic are pad wear indicators - when you are down to the end of one or all of the slots you need to renew your pads.
thats what i said, 
In several decades of driving, riding and maintaining cars and bikes, I have yet to have to top up brake fluid. If it is low enough to need topping up, it has always meant the pads needed replacing.
Thanks to all
Bike booked in with Ricky, to have the brakes changed, and a few other bits and pieces on Saturday.
Hopefully I will learn a lot
dlchatel Take the time on Saturday to watch and learn. Bike hydraulics are pretty simple (assuming you don’t have ABS) in fact they are so simple Archimedes would suss them out in ten minutes.
There are some tricks that need to be taught or learned, mainly odd little things that can save tears or loads of work, but they are pretty straight forward and can be carried out with pretty basic tools.
Thank you I will
Spot on 
Does no-one use good old Haynes manuals these days.
I learnt by reading an oily old manual and just getting in there. Agree about fluid low meaning pads need changing, but I also usually bleed the system through with fresh stuff anyway at a pad change just to be sure.
All you need to know is how a bleed nipple works (RTFM ;)) - tubing and a small spanner.
