Stud walls

Does anyone know if stud walls usually have additional horizontal pieces to support the main vertical studs. I am thinking of running some wires in the wall, top to bottom and I have a sneaky suspicion that is how the builders did the wall.

I have a stud finder and I have been able to use it and it does indicate that, but short of drilling a small hole and dropping something in it attached to a string i dont known how else to confirm.

In my experience it all depends on who built it and the spacing between the studs and if they thought they might want to have something to attach to a horizontal brace, like kitchen worktops or cabinets.

Do to mean noggins?


Yes that’s exactly it. I think the wall I want to run the wires down has them. It’s not the end of the world but would make for a much cleaner job.

Steady on there Kenny

Most stud walls would have them yeah.

I agree

Noggins. Yes there should be some, maybe two rows. Will most certainly be in the way for cables.

Drill small holes to locate them and assuming the wall is of plasterboard and not lath and plaster you can cut a neat hole in the plasterboard much larger than you think you need, carefully remove the pb in one piece, so that you can drill the noggins in the centre for the cables to pass.

Then you can refix the removed sections of pb in the exact same orientation with some small battens to stitch the edges together if required before filling, sanding and redecorating. Done properly it will be invisible.

1 Like

If it’s built using wood frame then yes, the metal frame ones don’t use them though (and are narrower)

1 Like


Key point there, done properly it would look invisible :rofl:. I have never gotten the while fill and sand thing down pact. When I am done it looks like the kids left play dough on the wall.

But thanks I just wanted to confirm that is what it was, cause every tutorial I have watched on running cables in the wall, it implies no noggins but that didn’t sound right to me based on other walls o Hve opened up.

Last resort will be for me to do the destroying then get someone in to refill and redecorate properly.

The trick is to cut holes large enough to get in and also to make making good easy. You need to get the plastered plasterboard out in one piece to make putting it back easy. Make pencil marks so that the piece goes back in the same way.

Always needs more that one fill and rub down.

Generaly timber stud walls yes you may get noggings but its not always the case, a 8ft ceiling height wouldnt require noggings would depend on the condition of the timber

Metal studs no

Done this many times, cut out a hole above the nogging to get access to drill a 10mm hole down through the nogging then pass wiring through. Mostly covered above except for the recommendation of an electricians ‘fish’ to pull the wiring through.

Been lucky in our house thus far whilst laying ethernet, not found any horizontal noggins.

Totally echo @National_Treasure’s suggestion of draw tape, has proved invaluable. I went for this one: It’s a stiffer spring metal type thing so you can poke wires in a particular direction. I found it best to tape up the end before withdrawing it back to stop it getting caught on stuff.

Where I’ve had to go into the wall, I’ve always double checked stuff with a few bradawl pokes after using the stud detector and listening to knocks. Just to get a feel of what’s behind, what I’m going through, there’s sufficient depth for a back box etc. I’ve found some walls have plywood behind the plasterboard and one boxed part was double plasterboard!

Where I’ve needed to make an access hole, I’ve gone in at 45 degree angle with the jab saw to give an angled edge all around, such that I can replace the panel easily and replaster without it falling behind… The replaced panel will end up recessed a little, so you can fill and smooth over the top easy to make it near invisible.

1 Like

Two layers of plasterboard are often used for fire compartmentation; two layers of standard plasterboard gives 1 hour protection. Just be careful creating weak points in compartments, they are there to contain fire.

I see. This was a boxed in soil pipe in the corner of a room on the ground floor. Same pipe on 1st floor was just single plasterboard mind.

1 Like

Generaly true 2 sheets of plasterboard will offer 1hr fire protection but now days fire compatmention you would use fireline or a shaftwell as the performance is a lot better.

1 Like

@HBG , @National_Treasure , @Arfa is this what you are suggesting ?? So a cut above the nogging so I can get a drill in, but try to keep the cut as neat as possible so I can replace the same piece and sand and fill ??

1 Like