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Est. 2004

Stuck second wheel bearing

Hey. I’ve got the old wheel bearings out. And put the new ones in. I didn’t have a special tool or a big enough socket to drive the new bearings in so just used the old bearings. I did one side, no issues, but on the second side after driving the new one in, my old bearing is now stuck - can’t get it out. Advice? Fyi, I don’t have a welder.
Tried already prying it out gently with a screwdriver and some plumbing pliers similar to delboy (Delboy's Garage, Motorcycle Wheel Bearing Replacement. - YouTube). Also tried heating the hub up from outside with a blowtorch.

Can you get any purchase on it from the other side? Or even take out the new bearing a bit, till it drops off (though you risk damaging the new one).

Can you hut the new one in more to give you a gap to get a punch on?

Oh gosh, that’s a doozy.

Get a cold chisel and a hammer and hit the protruding part until it dents in, then you can get some leverage on it. Screwdriver and hammer would work but be prepared you might destroy the screwdriver in the process.

Can’t get to it from the other side, not enough purchase. I guess I could take it out with the new bearing, but as you said it might damage it, which I’d prefer not to if at all possible.
The new one is already all the way in.

You mean hit the outer race from the side? That seems to be only chipping away at my chisel.

That’s a wood chisel, I mean a cold chisel like this The sort of thing you can chip away on concrete with.

That’s what I have :man_shrugging:

Oh bugger.

You could go down the road of using a dremel to grind away the old bearing, but after all that time and effort, I’d be inclined to smack out the old and new one, ruin the new one and buy another.

So, I’ll need a new bearing and a bearing driver set, I guess; don’t fancy going through this ball-ache again.

Ok. Got the old bearing out using the new one from the other side. Is there any way to know if I can still use this bearing? Does hitting it on the inner race normally damage it?

Also, looking for any other suggestions for driving the bearing in. My biggest 32mm socket as mentioned doesn’t quite cover it. And as you can see using the old bearing failed. Is the driver set the only option I have left?

Use the old bearing to start it off, and you can use a punch to tap the outside race evenly down (in a cross cross)

Not ideal as prone to getting a bearing stuck halfway, but works.

If you use a socket it just needs to only make contact with the outside race, not necessarily be the same outside diameter (though they do often go together).

As for checking if the new bearing is still good, stick a finger in and turn it, it should be smooth, if not it’s toast.

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I am confident I would screw this up with my butter fingers :sweat_smile:

Sadly, it’s just a fraction of a mm off making contact with the outside race. It fits perfectly inside it.

Seems to be good. Identical to the new bearing on the other side.

I agree with the punch and hammer method. Works for me. Just take your time and for goodness sake don’t hit the punch of the plastic bit

Use a file to reduce the outside diameter of the old bearing slightly so it fits in the hole but doesn’t bind. It doesn’t need to be perfectly round & you won’t need to take off that much so it shouldn’t take too long.

Spin the new bearing with your finger, if its smooth its OK, any roughness or notching and you’ve broke it. Show the outside edge of the old bearing a little action on a grinding wheel and its good to drift.

Sounds like your bearing is alight, once fitted check for play side to side in the wheel.

Next time, stitch the new bearings in the freezer for a couple of hours before fitting, makes them smaller and go in eaiser

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Got this job to do on my FZ6. Debating whether to attempt myself or just book it in. I have a cold chisel, big hammer and wood blocks. Is it worth forking out on any extra tools? Most I’ve seen aren’t exactly cheap, makes me wonder if I should just book it in…

The tool I have for fitting bearings is a length of M10 threaded bar, two M10 connector nuts and two large flat M10 washers . Use a suitable sized socket to press against the new bearing outer run and instead of hitting it with a hammer or drift thread the bar through the wheel, washers, nuts and whatever either side and tighten the nuts to pull the bearing into place.

As above if don’t have a suitable sized socket show the outside edge of the old bearing a little action on a grinding wheel and its good to press.

Sadly, don’t have a grinder or dremel, so had to make due with a file. Let me tell you this, it ain’t easy filing a round object :smile: After about half an hour of filing stuck the bearing in the freezer for 2 hours. Took it out. Put a bit of grease on the outside. Seemed to go smoother this time around. Not so going out :expressionless: Got stuck again. Had to resort to banging out with the new one again.

Decided to try the punch. And, it did go pretty well I believe. But, after checking the new bearing, it no longer goes round as smooth as the other one - there’s clearly a bit of drag. I guess to be expected after all the hammering in and out. So, I shall be ordering a new bearing and a driver tool :man_shrugging:

Be careful you dont push it in too much as if you squash the axle spacer ( tubey bit in etween the bearings) between bearings this can create a drag like feeling on bearings

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