That is all…
Most annoying workshop problem!
I’m thinking about changing the exhaust on the DRZ as it’s too loud, and the headers are rusting out. I fear battle would be required with the header bolts though.
Installing new panniers on the Tiger, need to take the passenger peg hangers off. Left side no issue, right side has resulted in a sheared torx bit, a pulled muscle and much swearing and they’re still not out
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Heat is your friend. Many a seized bolt is not seized but incorrectly installed using a high strength threadlocker such as red Loctite 263 or similar, heat to 250°C which melts the bond and dismantle while hot. Top tip heat the bolt head using a soldering iron and dismantle while hot, re-assemble using Copperslip or Alumslip.
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I was talking to a neighbour who races off-road and on trials bikes.
He said his suspension was leaking and apparently there’s such a problem bolt in it, he gave himself two hours before he would go and buy a new bike. In the end he got the bolt out in 1.5 hrs
Very drastic, but understandable
Soldering iron is a great idea, I spent an hour this afternoon going round shops trying to buy a small inexpensive blow torch with no success
Creme brulee torch
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Unfortunately heat didn’t help. Stopped short of stripping them but it’s going into the garage tomorrow instead
Oh, I like that. Thanks for the tip!
There’s a neat induction heater I’ve seen on YouTube. Same approach as a using a soldering iron but designed for the job. I don’t know that much about removing bolts but apparently it’s a mindset. My uncle had the patience for it apparently.
On the subject of bolts. I had fun trying to adjust my CB500 mirrors for half an hour until I looked at the threads and saw they were reversed threaded.
Can I remove 40 year old seized bolts using an induction heater? - YouTube
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Well £63 lighter they’re out. Now to order some replacements, although there’s no way I’m paying £7.70 each for them from Triumph!
There are different reasons why a nut or bolt doesn’t want to come out and play. For example:
Steel on steel fastenings become seized due to iron oxide corrosion (rust) apply penetrating fluid.
Steel fastenings into aluminium casings become seized due to galvanic corrosion (cold welding) make up and apply an oil/detergent emulsion (penetrating fluid, water and washing up liquid shaken vigorously to mix)
In both cases allow to soak over night, in the morning apply some more and more again before attempting to remove.
Thread locked nuts and bolts should loosen at less than 50 Nm or so, however, if a permanent thread locker such as ‘red’ Loctite 263 has been used they will need to be heated to around 250°C to break the bond.
If the above methods fail then heat and force are your friends, preferably more heat and less force to minimise the risk of shearing. Impact guns and breaker bars are your enemies.
Top tip – After the initial crack or 30° turn (that’s half of one flat on a hex nut) apply penetrating fluid or oil/detergent emulsion and allow to soak the idea here is to lubricate and cool the threads. The procedure is then to tighten by 20°, loosen by 30°, tighten by 30°, loosen by 60°, apply penetrating fluid or oil/detergent emulsion and repeat. If you come to a tight spot tighten by 30°, loosen by 30°, apply penetrating fluid or oil/detergent emulsion at that spot and repeat until the threads ease off.
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Have a look at Kay's Fasteners | eBay Stores and you don’t need to replace torx heads for torx heads either
Those induction heaters might as well be magic wands. Amazing.
Limited only by cost and size and isn’t always the way with stubborn fastenings they’re awkward enough to get on with a spanner or socket let alone a baseball bat sized magic wand cum induction heater. Of course if you’ve got the engine out…
Unfortunately one of those wouldn’t have helped on these, though fair dos the garage managed to get them out without drilling the heads off.
Sacrificial sockets and a mig welder come in handy at times.
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What a great geeky resource, thanks.