The dimensions given are specific to chain size and are the theoretical minimum and maximum dimensions for the flare of the rivet pin. Excessive flare and you risk the link plate binding resulting in premature chain/sprocket wear or failure, insufficient flare and you risk the link plate falling off resulting in an immediate chain failure. It is virtually impossible to judge from a photograph whether a rivet pin is within those tolerances.
An experienced mechanic who regularly fits chains will judge the rivet flare by eye, feel and experience. These things can only be learnt over time and through hands on experience. However, if the connecting link plates are not binding, have no sideways play and sit about right when compared to the inside and outside link plates on either side of the connecting link plate then its probably about right. The only way you’re going to be sure is to get on down and measure the flare.
I will get the gauge but unfortunately DID do not give any specifications for 428 links because their own tool only works with larger 520 chains and above, so I would not even know what to measure against. Even my chain tool which is supposed to support 428s struggled with presing the side plate because the holes were not close enough together. The side plates are the same distance apart as the other links, it is not tight, and the pins have been spread on the inside so must have spread out. So it sounds like I either need to hope my luck has changed, or get someone experienced to check it over.
Before adding too them, one coat of ACF50 protected the scratches for quite a while when doing the whole thing anyway. But I never thought of painting the heat shield, so will do that.
The gauge might be a little OTT. What you could do is to check the alignment of the link plates by placing a steel rule across the connecting link plates and the link plates on either side, check both sides of the chain (inside and out). If both the connecting link plates are flush and in line and the connecting link rivets have more or less equal flare and there is no binding of the connecting link plates then the jobs probably good to go.
But first, the eBay gauge arrived so I checked my link and it measured up as identical to the others in the various ways save for one of the riveted pins being 0.21" wide when the ones on the rest of the chain (and the other rivet) were 0.20".
What is the type of grease which looks like ear wax? I replaced the brake lever as the rounded was resembled a piece of nutmeg after enjoying a nice rice pudding. The Haynes manual only called for lithium grease for the pivot and silicone grease for the brake pushrod, but the spring was coated in a thick-ish golden brown-ish stuff. As it seemed well lubricated, and the manual never said to do anything with it, I just put it back as it was, but it would be good to know.
Back to the rust. Painting the heat shield, presumably I would need to sand, grind, and whatever to get the chrome off first?
How worried should I be about the downpipe? Can it be just scrubbed down and painted in a suitably high heat paint, or is that a bad or pointless idea?
As before, I would like it to last as long as possible rather than be overly concerned with it looking pretty. Although now it is a discontinued model I suppose I should start pretending it is a classic. Would it be easier just to let someone else sort out the shield and pipes, or would that more expensive than it is worth?
And finally, the two-tone weathered effect in the top right corner on what is apparently called “cover, cylinder head side 2.” Does that need any attention?
The technical term for it is wear and tear, since its not leased it’s down to you to decide if it’s fair or not. The problem with painting over chromed surfaces is getting the paint to key, you should be able to do that by rubbing the chrome down with one of those green scouring pad things, may need several coats over time. Ditto the No2 cylinder head cover, I think you’ll find a rocker arm under there which may make it a rocker cover
Grease, you could end up with more pots and grease potions than you could shake a stick at if you’re not careful. I use four types of grease, lithium grease for axels and pivots, it comes in various shades of golden brown and darkens with age as it absorbs all manner of debris. Red rubber grease, yes its red, for the assembly of hydraulic brake and clutch parts including brake pad pins, brake/clutch push rods etc. Copper grease, yes its copper coloured, for brake pad backing plates, brake pad shims, drum shoe pivots and any nut/bolt threads that do not require a thread lock. Assembly grease for the assembly of engine components such as valve shims, camshafts, crankshafts etc. Any other grease yuo can keep including silicone grease, it’s recommended for brake and clutch cables because its plastic friendly but its’ just one too many pots on the shelf for me, my preference for plastic shrouded cables is a spray lubricant and/or light machine oil, whatever I have to hand at the time.
Grease that has absorbed debris, including fine metallic particles, takes on a dark or blackened appearance and should be replaced because it becomes abrasive.
Hmm, my tub of lithium grease was already a dark-ish grey colour when it came fresh from Halfords.
With the wear and tear though, my thoughts for painting things is as a protection from the elements and further damage. I have already taken enough risk of things breaking through my attempts at playing the mechanic, without also needing to worry about things like rotting pipes falling off too.
Ignore the ‘out of the tub’ colour as its mostly added at manufacture to differentiate products within a manufacturers range. Lithium grease is normally white to grey in colour often available as a spray but also in the traditional semi solid grease form, it’s recommended for its water and heat resistance. LM grease is a Lithium based Molybdenum Disulphide grease, its recommended for use under pressure or load. The lithium grease in various colours of golden brown I refer to is a General Purpose or Multi-purpose, ‘one tub does most things’, lithium based grease.
Note wrapping exhaust pipes can have a detrimental affect because the wrapped pipes retain more of the heat from the exhaust which can lead to an overheating of the top end valve gear etc.
the current bike I have was treated in ACF50 & the seller was at pains telling me all about it & how much he spent I pissed on his fire when I told him I couldn't see anything on the bike & it didnt look any different to other bikes id seen
Wise
the current bike I have was treated in ACF50 & the seller was at pains telling me all about it & how much he spent
I pissed on his fire when I told him I couldn't see anything on the bike & it didnt look any different to other bikes id seen
Wise
Sounds like he needed a certificate! :D
Serrisan
I got shed loads of paperwork & a certificate
I threw it in the drawer never to be seen again
if I sell the bike before its time is up im sure people will look at its service history (it wont have any I do it myself ) and condition of the bike it wont be showroom as I do shed loads of miles into & out of London so it picks up battle scars
but then again if I do sell it ill sell it for what I consider is reasonable & I don’t have any intension of trying to make money from it.
the bike will be what it is. washed cleaned , serviced & used sold by a realist not a dreamer
The way I have treated my bike I will probably have to pay someone to take it from me. Once I have checked my head still works and I can still ride okay I will finally get around to doing the tests, but no idea what to do about it after that. As a cat D it was just over £1k but only six months old, with under 500 miles, and mostly looked as good as new. After 12k, scratched everywhere, and made of rust, I think we may be forced to settle for each other for life.
Got no excuses left for not riding it now though, so will have to take it to the end of the road and back on Saturday to make sure I have not become afraid of going slowly in straight lines after last time out.
