Question about impact wrench?

I need to change the chain and sprockets…is this drill torque going to be enough to open the nuts

http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9806488&fh_view_size=6&fh_start_index=0&fh_location=%2F%2Fcatalog01%2Fen_GB&fh_search=impact+drill&fh_eds=ß&fh_refview=search&ts=1215026222518&isSearch=true

Why do you want that?

Just use a socket on a T bar and a bit of tubing if you need extra leverage:cool:

My friend said you can break the shaft if you use sockets…also I tried once its impossible to open the front small socket. Has anyone done it here manually so please give me advise…

thanks

:slight_smile:

I did mine a few months back. I used a 4 foot breaker bar and a few extra stone I had lying around :D, got it off relatively easily.

You still use a socket on that gun :slight_smile:

Do what Chunky said but while under load clump the bar where the socket pops on the drive hard with a hammer (easier with a friend) and you’ll have more impact action than the gun. The snap does the work rather than masses of leverage, same as the gun works :cool:

The gun may work but it’s cheap compared to a Snap-on one at 400 bucks so may not have much oomph anyway ;)Edited as I just realised that’s a drill and useless for the job :stuck_out_tongue: :smiley:

do it manually, mate. get a correct socket, breakers bar, put the bike in gear, get yr missus to sit on it and hold the brakes, job done… just don’t brake the shaft :smiley:

Pretty unlikely to break the shaft. Just look at your bikes torque output and wonder how you are going to generate that many foot/pounds, newton/meters, whatevers.

In my experience, a decent quality, good fit socket with a good three foot breaker bar will do all but the most stubborn. Then I swap to an impact drive. A manual job with a 1/2 inch drive for the socket and a lump hammer for clouting the thing. The impact shock is very high torque and the jarring will break free most nuts.

Warning. This is a two person job either way as the brakes need to be firmly on, particularly the rear, and also, if you need the impact driver, there is no satisfaction in getting the nut to move once the bike has fallen over from the wellying you’ve just given the driver with the lump hammer.

When putting it back together, use Locktight and a torque wrench if it is not locked by a tab washer or set screw.

Er… It’s a good idea to check that it’s not locked in place by one or the other of these before you start trying to undo the thing!

I’d imagine that for 40 quid that high performance Impact Drill/Wrench might just about get the top of a Coke bottle;):smiley:

Thet is no substitute for good old muscle power;):smiley:

yep make sure theres no tab washer locking it in place, put bike in gear and brakes on, huge bar to lever it off looks drastic and you think engine gotta break but will be fine (alledgedly) did it on my gsx only way to move the bugger

Make sure you free the front sprocket nut off before you cut the chain. Ive always found that a mate holding the back brake in is easier than in putting the bike in gear, no free play at all.

Lump of 2x2 wrapped in rags through the spokes does it for me;):smiley:

I can vouch for that approach !
Didn’t bother with using the rags though, it’s a hard Bandit !

one guy has tried that and took 1x2" of the swingarm out as it’s hollow on the inside, just a cast from outside!

What can I say about Chunky Monkey’s idea of a bit of 2 X 2?

Pragmatic.

Now the best idea, just pragmatic.

Find another body to help.

Hmm… If you have a 15 stone bloke on the end of a 3 foot breaker bar, you will exert a force of 630 lbft on the shaft.

Fair bit more than the output of the motor…

WTF are you talking about?The vast majority of straight alloy swinging arms are extruded with castings welded on the end.Said extrusions are tougher than a lump of softwood:cool:

gurniman , you may be right, now I’ve checked.

But I’m an eleven stone man on the end of a 2 foot bar and that’s only rarely failed to do the job.

That’s a steady loading up which has always got to better than the impact loading from the driver.

One way or another, the damn*d thing has got to be undid.

Going by my sons Bandit, the next problem is pulling the damn*d thing off the output shaft splines and getting the new one on.

You have to respect ingenuity and home made special tools sometimes.

that was on a new yammy fz1 :slight_smile:

In the end I asked my SA friend\mechanic to change the chain and sprocs at his home gave him £20 for the pain…he has a snap on and all proper tools…