Thread to record various stuff about my 2012 KTM SMCR supermoto
I will try and make a post on a specific topic and keep a log of useful information.
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Decals
First thing I did was get some decals from the German company
https://www.independentracing.de/shop/de/markenshops/ktm-shop/ktm-street-dekore/smc-dekore/
there is a variaty of things you can customize like logos, number plate numbers etc
So once I decided what i wanted, I placed the order and the guys even changed the color of a few things for me. The process was great and decals actually came before the bike was delivered 
So first order of business was to remove panels and old decals
Then get the new stickers on. I used the dry method and a small hairdryer to put the stickers on and for a first timer they went on ok.
Note: the sidepanel stock decal is ‘in’ the panel - it doesnt come off. option one is to get a new panel without a decal but they are only available in orange and black.
Option two and what i did is to try and cover the stock sticker, it needed some stretching in some areas but the oem decal isnt noticeable.
and put them back on! happy with the result! 
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TuneECU dongle
Next on the agenda was a dongle to the ECU and having a play with tuneECU. (note you cant use tuneECU on the 2019+ models - you need to go down the power commander route).
Looks like this:
and plugs into a port under the seat. It can be used for fault finding, and obviously tuning.
Info and installation found here
https://www.tuneecu.net/
There is a free PC program (note - doesnt work on a mac)
Or a paid for mobile app.
I have only ever used the PC program
Once connected to the bike i could double check that the correct map was installed on the bike i.e.:
km765eu12b0233ep
km765eu12b0233fi
after some research decided not to do any modifications on the throttle maps (the 100% one) but i do have them saved if anyone needs them.
so mapping left as is until the booster plug (see later post)
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You did a great job on the decals, I think the bike looks fab! Did you say you installed something to try and resolve the issue of stalling?
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Booster plug - stalling issues
so I had a few stalling issues mainly from cold e.g.
I would start the bike, ride to the end of the road to the locked gate and by the time i unlocked the gate and got to the bike it has stalled. This happened every time
less rare was stalling at the traffic lights, but it did happen, and even rarer was stalling at the start of the throttle opening.
I decided i had two solutions:
a. play with tuneECU and add fuel to the very start of the throttle openings
b. get a booster plug installed
I was going to go down the tuneECU route but found a booster plug for £40 from ebay (they are £150 new) so decided to use that
it looks like this:
and claims to:
A true plug and play solution that will make your bike so much better:
- Fix the snatchy throttle response problem
- Improved acceleration
- No more low speed surging
- Stronger idle - no more stalling problems
- Deceleration backfires in the exhaust reduced to a minimum
and it plugs between the air intake sensor and you put the metalic sensor somewhere away from heat.
It then tricks the ECU into thinking the air is warmer and makes the fueling richer.
so far (one test ride) so good - will report back after more testing
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Some notes on tuneECU
My bike is a '12 SMC-R with Akra pipe, normal filter and 02 and SAS still on the bike
Currently the map thats on the bike is the km765eu12b0233 (EP&FI) and the bike starts easily (minus the cold stall - see above for fix),it doesnt hunt and has good throttle responce.
Note 233 is a combination of 2012 EVO1 FI (KM765EU12B0231FI) and stock 2013 EP (KM765EU12B0216EP).
Also note there is no AKRA map post 2011, the EVO one covers the Akra pipe.
Another thing i noticed is that the km765eu12b0233FI map has the same setting for all tables F1,2&3, L1,2&3, I1,2&3
Meaning that once you load the 233 mapping all that the mapping dongle does is change the EP settings not the Fueling (The throttle map looks like it is relative RPM)
I need to test this against AMA’s Relative RPM and report back
(unless someone else has already tested the above)
There is also the chance of setting the throttle map to 100% where it means you get what you ask from the engine, but I believe the consensus is an RPM relative mapping is better
There is also the myth of changing the F-L setting to 10-10-0-0-0-0-0 but this seems to be a bad idea for bikes post 2011.
Other info:
The neutral map is what ECU using in Neutral and when the clutch is pulled in.
If revs drop from clutched to take off it could be that the neurtal map is to aggressive compared to the others.
Suggestion is to copy the ‘Soft’ throttle map to the ‘Neutral’ table
2012 Stock: KM765EU12B0215 (EP, FI)
2012 EVO1: KM765EU12B0231 (EP, FI)
2013 Stock: KM765EU12B0216 = KM765EU12B0202 (EP, FI)
2013 EVO1: KM765EU12B0233 (EP, FI)
Vortex ECU:
2012 / 2013 are considered one of the best years before fly bye wire came into play .Vortex ECU made these years very tune-able and run like a beast .you can still get one from Tokyo mods
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Front sprocket leak
An issue seeming to plague most SMCRs is a small leak from behind the front sprocket.
There are a few opinions:
This is due to an aftermarket front sprocket with out the cush drive
It will happen over time
Its normal and actually self cleaning 
I have noticed it happens more often during wheelie practice (on a private road officer) and it most evident by dark oil drops on the rear wheel from the chain.
Free chain lube?!
So far not done much about it just keeping an eye on engine oil levels
oh and mine is a stock sprocket - so there goes theory no1
My adventure sometimes struggled from stalling but we seemed to fix it after a few visits to mech.
A different scenario to try, before you get caught out. Find a straight road and accelerate the shits out of it. Rev it hard. Then pull clutch lever in. See if that stalls it.
On my KTM I think it was the map and a few bodge settings from previous owner that made it run waaaay too rich. Didn’t have much of an issue after we tweaked but I had learnt not to ride too aggressively or make my gear changes quick
Only reason I say to test is you don’t want to get caught on a motorway or on a twisty road and engine dies out. Unlike my gsr, popping the clutch might not bring the bike back to life. It might just lock your rear wheel. Found that out on day 0 of owning on M25, in lane 3 of 4. Funny how rear wheel lock at 75 doesn’t feel that strange if in a straight line
will try that but so far havent noticed anything like that. it has always been at 0% or >5% throttle
@Serrisan confirmed today during lunch time test ride - no, issues with pulling clutch in at high revs/speed
Mirrors
The bike came with no mirrors 
I know some people like @Serrisan dont need them but I prefer to see whats behind me so decided on adding some.
Obviously didn’t want the ugly stock ones and couldn’t do bar end ones due to the handlebar guards!
Solution was to get a handlebar clump (10mm 7/8"), and a long bolt (M10 x 1.25mm Fine Pitch) where the bar end mirrors (22mm 7/8" ) can grab onto.
In the end though I had the idea of flipping the brake clump upside down and just use that instead of the handle bar clamp.
I think that looks better.
Just to be clear… never said I preferred it. I just got naturally used to not having them 
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That’s pretty clever actually. I didn’t think of flipping the stock mirror mount. Does the throttle not turn on the bar at times? It looks like the notching helps lock one of the two in place.
Also, your bike’s been down the road, the switchgear is all scuffed 
I assume it wasn’t you?
i dont think that notch does anything - the break leaver (thats what the mirror mount holds in place) is solid.
yeah the bike had def been dropped by one of the previous owners! there are marks on the handlebar protectors as well.
Have you checked the TPS via TuneECU?
When mine was stalling a lot it was out of spec.
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good point. will check that out as well and report back
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Mine had actually cracked, so gave a correct reading while stationary but was wrong when the bike was running/moving. It took a while to notice that…
I’d also changed the fuel filter on the fuel pump (worth doing if it’s not been done recently plus I replaced the fuel pump while it was out but that might have been overkill)
Changed the injector as well.
what year is yours again?
2011
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Nice.