If you do that put the chain through your rear wheel and keep the chain taut. No slack. Slack makes it easy to get into a position that’s easy to cut through. And the rear wheel as it’s not a huge amount of work to just unbolt the front wheel and leave it behind whilst taking the bike.
With the rear you have options such as maybe putting the chain through the swing arm or even the frame as well making it much harder.
And it’s very easy for two lads, one either side holding the handgrips, to pick up the front of a bike missing a front wheel, or with a disc lock, and walk it away. Much more difficult to do this with the rear wheel removed.
Going back to getting in touch with your neighbours the Victorians were particularly good at this. They would knock on each others doors and have face to face conversations with each other, if that proved impractical they’d write messages on cards and put them under each others door. Thanks to Roland Hill’s postal reforms the practice went viral and people cut holes in their front doors specifically for the purpose of receiving cards and messages from friends and neighbours etc.
The Royal Mail postal system has evolved some but is still there and still works. I’d scribe my message on postcards and put them through all the neighbours front doors or wall mounted letter boxes.
Get someone to weld a thick bar into the recess of the piling sheet. It’ll be tucked out of the way & no-one can claim it’s a trip hazard. In fact no-one is even likely to notice it. Do it high enough & it keeps the chain off the floor too, so makes it more difficult to cut.
Is a brilliant suggestion. 
No one outside of the construction industry would have a clue whether it was a normal part of the piling sheet.
That’s actually pretty genius. Great suggestion.
Only thing is rebar is much easier to cut than a proper chain. Any thief with a disc cutter would attack that first.
Chain around the column is a good one.
That’s why I said thick bar rather than rebar. 
My mistake, I misread.
Agree, I have one of the longer Almax chains and that should go round that post. Measure it all up first though…
Btw how have you found the mirrors so far?
I’ve found them surprisingly better than I thought they’d be. As @nivag does, you can angle one slightly different to the other in terms of distance behind you, which helps. I’m happy with them 
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Up next…
I’ve added engine covers (GB Racing), frame sliders (R&G) and fork protectors (R&G). I already had R&G rear spindle bobbins for my paddock stand.
I’m not a total idiot when it comes to mechanics, but software is my thing and I don’t really have much experience when it comes to working with “hardware”.
The instructions for the GB Racing covers say to tighten the bolts to 10nm. So I went ahead and bought a torque wrench to do this.
Thing is… I set the torque wrench to 20nm, thinking it was set to 10nm because I misread the lines on the side of the wrench 
. Thankfully ever single bolt tightened fine… except the last, which snapped in half inside the hole hahaha.
After calming down from the bout of panic I had, I called FWR Tyres who are just 5 mins down the road from me who, firstly, assured me that they could sort it and then proceeded to tell me I was a wally for using a 3/8 Inch torque wrench with something as low as 10nm force hahahah. He (Matt) said that he usually does anything under 15nm by hand… LESSON LEARNED.
I’ll be posting a praise thread for FWR later because Matt was absolutely fantastic right from the first phone call through to me popping down there. Can’t speak highly enough of my experience with them.
New bolts ordered from GB Racing so all should be sorted soon.
I’ve got a MTB torque wrench for the low number settings, similar to this one https://amzn.to/2ZwJbSU
Got told the exact same thing after snapping my second bolt off (can’t remember which one it was). It’s the only way one learns tbh… It’s only natural to want to: "just get it that bit tighter, little more, one more turn, nearly… oh fuck "
Some folk shouldn’t be allowed spanners but I guess Matt already told you both that. For my two penneth if the original bolt supplied by GB Racing sheared at 20Nm I’d not order from them, check out https://www.kayfast.co.uk/
Further proof of the old adage ‘There’s no scarier a sight than seeing a software engineer with a tool in his hand.’
HAHA! My dad’s a very skilled carpenter who’s also good with mechanical things, he thought it was hilarious 
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I don’t remember what he said* but I definitely remember not doing it again…
*I think he laughed and then sighed as he realised he’d have to sort it for me
But I’m not sure this is the same Matt, as I thought the one I’m thinking of was at MD racing?
That applies to me too, but I am too cheap to pay anyone else.
Anyway, a reminder that last year I got home one day to find a space where my left R&G crash bung (or frame sliders if you want) used to be. No idea where or when it went, other than being somewhere between Yorkshire and London. But it left the far end of the bolt still sat in the engine block that I needed an engineering firm to drill it out. So I would not recommend their bolts much either.
In the end I replaced the bungs with crash bars.
