Morning all going to try and fit this today.
I wanted to try and wire it so it came on with the ignition at the moment looks like it is just a direct connection to the battery.
Any advice welcome as Electrics is not something I usually get involved in on the bike. I watched a video some guy mentioning a these https://goo.gl/Lyds5D
anyone used them they any good and worth it?
Don’t use them
Find the ignition live (orange wire I think) carefully stripe back the plastic with a stanly knife cut and put a length of heat shrink on the cable then solder on the tom Tom live wire push the heat stink over the exposed wires and heat up till it shrinks
Any advice the Royston? Something better I can use?
Look up
Or pop over on Monday I’ll do it for you
Lol must be my pc playing up just showed don’t use those.
Can’t do Monday thanks for the offer though. Might just wire it directly for today as I need to use it then look into it further another day or drop round to yours 
It shouldn’t hurt wiring direct as you remove the unit when you are off the bike
What I can you is put in a switch relay so you can add to your heats content
And not draw off the ignition live
I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again, every mo’cycle should have an extended wiring harness for an accessory circuit wired in via an accessory circuit powered through a change over relay. Ignition ON accessories ON, ignition OFF accessories OFF, it doesn’t get any simpler or battery friendly than that.
I have no problem using the Scotch Locks to trigger the accessory circuit relay, put it somewhere easily accessible just in case, mine triggers off the rear number light and is Scotch Locked under the pillion seat. if a picture speaks a thousand words then…
and if its a TOMTom Rider get the ‘anti theft solution’. Its not proper security but good enough to let you leave the TomTom Rider on its mount when re-fueling or to prevent some up and coming football player from borrowing it at the traffic lights. If you’re riding in and arpound London its a no brainer. Don’t pay TomTom money for it either, shop around and save some hard earned. I got mine 18 month back off of fleabay for £60.00 delivered, think they’re <£40.00 now.
cheers NT I was actually looking at the earlier. Did not think about some scrote running up and grabbing it more the refueling etc but I will be getting one for sure.
and if its a TOMTom Rider get the 'anti theft solution'. Its not proper security but good enough to let you leave the TomTom Rider on its mount when re-fueling or to prevent some up and coming football player from borrowing it at the traffic lights. If you're riding in and arpound London its a no brainer. Don't pay TomTom money for it either, shop around and save some hard earned. I got mine 18 month back off of fleabay for £60.00 delivered, think they're <£40.00 now.
National Treasure
They’re a bit of a faff to get them fitted in the right orientation, so the screen is at the right angle obviously but also so you have good access to the key ways. The unit plus the anti theft solution becomes just too heavy for the ram mount clamp to hold in some positions.
and you’ll need a 7/16" AF spanner for the handle bar ‘U’ bolt fitting, it’s a US American thing.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, every mo'cycle should have an extended wiring harness for an accessory circuit wired in via an accessory circuit powered through a change over relay. Ignition ON accessories ON, ignition OFF accessories OFF, it doesn't get any simpler or battery friendly than that.How would you waterpoof a connector block? My bike does have a switched accessory port, so I was thinking that would be the best way of adding multiple items to it. I fell prey to that TomTom offer too (due next week) so was thinking may as well add a USB port too, and eventually want to add aux lights.
National Treasure
Why would you use a connector block? it’s too bulky and the holding screws are at risk of loosening from vibration! Look at the wiring diagram above, cable splitting and joining is done by means of crimp butt connectors, one wire in and two wires out. Properly crimped connections will last. If you have a crimp connector where it’s likely to suffer from water ingress then shrink wrap and tape it. I tend to shrink wrap all crimp connectors not just to waterproof them but it also adds mechanical strength, I also wrap vulnerable sections of wiring in self amalgamating harness tape.
Assuming your accessory port is a stand alone 12v socket I’d splice into the +12v feed there with a butt connector or, a piggy back spade connector or, whatever depending on the existing connections. Then run off that as if it was straight off the battery as above, fitting inline mini fuses at convenient, accessible points at each splice off. Remember too you may need to upgrade the accessory port fuse.
There are two 12V accessory ports which I believe share the same 7.5A fuse. One is in the back of the headlamp, to which the official heated grips are connected but there is no space there to attach anything else. Honda say they use a maximum of 36W, so I make that 3A.
Would the butt connectors mean having to redo them every time you want to add or remove something? Plus there will only be so many cables you can join at one point, which is why I was thinking a connector block would be the easiest way of adding things. The port is a sumitomo connector, and I have a plug and pins for it. But it is only really those three things I can imagine adding, and I suppose butt connectors are cheap enough to be easily replaceable when the time comes.
There is a method where you can wedge the positive wire in next to the fuse of one of the circuits that comes on with the ignition. That saves splicing part of the loom but is a bit of a fudge. I’ve always just hard wired as I never leave the unit on the bike even if I stop for fuel.
It requires a little forward planning. Run one wire off the accessory port into a butt connector, one wire in, two wires out. Run both of those wires into butt connectors with one wire in and two wires out of each and you have wiring for four accessories. Use three of them for the TomTom, USB and auxiliary lights and the fourth as a spare to future proof the circuit. Remember to fit inline fuses 2A for the TomTom, 3A for the USB, 5A for the auxiliary lights and don’t fit a fuse in the spare. Carry a spare 10A fuse to replace the 7.5A in the unlikely event that it fails.
Note the TomTom Rider fits as three parts, the SatNav unit slots into the charging mount, the charging mount attaches to the handle bar bracket by means of a ram mount and a twist lock wiring connector, the handle bar bracket attaches to the handle bar by means of a ‘U’ bolt. This means you have to disconnect the wiring each time you disconnect mount, bit of a fiddle about so I opted for the anti theft (low security) solution.
Tom Tom well Garmin actually mine is hard wired but it is only on the bike when I am on the bike and I only use when I am going somewhere where i don’t know so usually when off touring mainland europe
Thanks, NT. Will look into the security option once it arrives and I realize what a nuisance it is.
Be careful the contacts on the mount could short the battery if hard wired as they may still be live when the unit is removed
