Motorcycle Community London's Motorcycle Community
Est. 2004

Gear shift lever dropped down and some leakage

Yes, just like that. Bolt it up to close the gap before cutting. Although the splines look well worn down in that last pic, might be a replacement gear lever is the way to go.

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Yeah, I was thinking about this last night. The splines, the stripped bolt thread, one of the rubber boots has a hole, and the rubber on the foot peg is disintegrating. So, decided to get a used one, albeit in much better nick than mine, off ebay. The whole assembly from footpeg to shifter arm for 20 squid.

Happy days, look after the shaft spline.

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What’s going on with the leak?

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Welp. I tightened the bolts like you suggested a few days ago. I came home last night, put the bike on the centerstand and cleaned the underside of any oil with a paper towel. This is what I found this morning.

Looks to me like the gasket is the problem :thinking: I’ll check the torque figures, but I don’t believe I can tighten the bolts any more than I already have.
According to the haynes manual I need to drain the engine of all oil when overhauling the alternator, but do I really need to do that if I’m only going to change the gasket?

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I wouldn’t, I’d just lay the bike on it’s side (on a tyre, etc.) and replace it.

Also, never over-torque the bolts! You really don’t want to strip the threads in your engine or shear off a bolt in there :slight_smile:

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Those are steel bolts going into threaded aluminium casings. I wouldn’t torque them any more than around 12 Nm or so or there’s a risk of stripping the threads especially with older fastenings/casings which may be suffering from some degree of metal fatigue.

If it was mine I’d drain the engine oil into a clean container for re-filling later although if that’s the stator cover it may not be necessary to drain the engine oil but I suspect its the clutch cover, remove the casing and see what is there. There may be a gasket or there may just be a liquid gasket bead. Whatever there is, I’d carefully clean off both mating surfaces and re-assemble using a bead of Hylomar Universal Blue.

If an oil change isn’t due there’s nothing wrong in re-using the drained oil providing its been drained into a clean container and hasn’t been allowed to become contaminated between draining and refilling. Obviously if it is about time for an engine oil change don’t forget to change the oil filter too.

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Looking back on those photos I’d recommend you invest in a 500g tub of Lithium based multi-purpose grease and grease the gear lever/gear shaft splines, gear lever pivot, gear linkage pivots (fill those rubber boots) and side stand pivot. While you have the grease out the centre stand pivot bolt shank, centre stand spring pivots and rear brake lever pivot may as well be greased too. If you feeling particularly energetic you may want to tackle re-greasing the wheel bearings, front and rear axels, swinging arm, shock pivots etc. On the other hand I’ve heard folk claim a 500g tub of grease will last a life time, well it will if you don’t use it!

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That drain plug looks pretty wet. are you sure the leak isn’t seeping from there and ending up where you can see the blob because that’s a lower part of the casing?

Far more likely for a drain bolt to be leaking, for example, from a re-used washer.

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That oil is dripping after a quick wipe down with a paper towel and an overnighter on the centre stand, no way is it coming from the drain plug, but fair play the drain plug does look a little neglected. In for a penny… while you’re shopping for a tub of grease grab yourself a can of brake & clutch or carb cleaner and give the area a thorough deep clean with a proper oily rag and add a replacement copper washer for the drain plug to the ever expanding list of things to catch up on.

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Don’t have a tyre, but I’m sure I can find something suitable :+1:

According to haynes manual it’s the alternator cover (the clutch cover is on the other side of the bike). Also, checking the gasket online it is in the same shape:

Is a liquid gasket better than the solid one?

Oh yes, I have one of those tubs :grin: Greased up what I had time for.

Yeah, both sides around the dripping oil were completely clean, you’d expect at least some small trace of oil if it was moving from the drain plug.
Is carb and brake cleaner the same thing? I hear contact cleaner can also substitute carb cleaner?
Can I use a sump plug copper washer? Or would I need a different one here?


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Not always at £6.59 get the solid gasket. When fitting it smear the alternator cover side of the gasket with grease and the engine casing side with Hylomar Universal Blue or similar, that way if you ever have to remove it will come apart easily and the gasket will remain on the engine casing, in one piece and reusable.

No, they are a little different. Carb cleaner is for removing dirt, debris, and hardened carbon deposits and can leave an oily residue behind. Brake (& clutch) cleaner is for removing dirt, debris, and oily fluids and leaves the surface clean and dry. Do not use carb cleaner on brakes, you can use brake (& clutch) cleaner anywhere. For cleaning the outside of those casings you can use either a maintenance spray, brake cleaner or carb cleaner whichever you have to hand. Do not get maintenance spray or carb cleaner anywhere near the brakes.

Yes, a sump plug copper washer should be fine and you should change it from time to time. The workshop manuals recommend changing it at every oil change, I change mine at every 3 or 4 oil changes. Having a dual fuel stove I re-anneal them too once I have a pair I have copper sump washers for life.

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Thank you for the all info :+1:

Last time I bought a bunch of sump plug washers since they’re pretty cheap, so have plenty to spare and normally change them on every oil change.