Fitting straight bars (Renthals) to Hornet

Hi folks, my Hornet’s just failed the MOT due to bent bars sustained in my last off. I’m gonna fit Renthals as I guess these will be cheaper than OE bars - thing is - will I need to fit longer throttle cables (as Renthal bars tend to be wider than stock).

MOT guy told me story of mate with Hornet who fitted Renthals and experienced throttle getting STUCK OPEN on bend (because cables were too short) which caused him to crash into Reliant three wheeler :w00t:

I don’t want to crash into a Reliant three wheeler - any advice.

MANY THANKS IN ADVANCE - SID T.

PSML… mate need to clean coffee of my screen now!!

no you won’t mate. i’ve got a hornet and put some ultra lows on it. all cables were fine. be aware your switch gear will have little notches on the inside of it. you either have to drill the bars for the notches to fit into or file/cut em off. i went for the drilling option. be warned though there is a tiny margin for error when drilling as that will mean the switchgear will have to go where you drill the holes. because of this make sure you line up the bars etc and double check all measurements and test bars on full lock either side. some people bugger it up so when at full lock the switchgear hits the tank. not good really.

if you’re worried you could always lop 25mm off each side of the bar which’ll put em to the same width as stock bars and mean the switchgear is closer to the headstock. you won’t have any problem with the width they come though and it helps with counter steering and the bulldog stance :wink:

be careful and take your time. double check all measurements. know of plenty of people that have arsed this job up but it really ain’t that hard.

he’s a bit of a guide that should help http://www.the2hands.btinternet.co.uk/fittings/Page_2x.html

Cheers Ad! :wink: Your an absolute Diamond mate! Thanks a lot! :):):slight_smile:

hi
I just noticed your post and remembered that I have a different bar in my cupboard. It was on my hornet when I bought it. I had just passed my test about 4 days before buying the bike and was so nervous about it all that I got a mate to change the bar back to the original for me. I doubt the previous owner would have changed it over if it there was anything complicated about it.
The hornet was stolen so don’t need it. I also have diff headlights (twin), a black leather tank cover and a haynes manual if you want them.
It was a 1999 cb600f
Anita

Cheers Anita - I’m going to ‘revamp’ my Hornet at some point - when I get close to said revamping time i’ll pm you to see if you’ve still got the parts. Kind regards Sid. :wink:

No worries. They wont be leaving the cupboard anytime soon!

got a new pair of drag bars here, yours for a tenner.

bought em for the bandit and they are orrible on a bandit.

Am in se london.

A tip for getting the hole you drill to line up with lugs on the switchgear. Wrap a couple of layers of some masking tape round the bars where the switchgear goes on. Then lightly tighten the switchgear up. The lugs will make a mark on the tape. Drill there.

Dremel the lugs off the switchgear castings:cool:

if you do decide to do that maybe pop some double sided sticky pads on the inside of the switchgear just to make sure it doesn’t move around in any way :wink: :cool: :slight_smile:

No need for that. I’ve done it on my VTR Streetfighter with no issues whatsoever;)

And how many miles has your fighter done since then:Whistling:

Complete mechanical philistine. I suppose your chain is held together by a cable tie.

lol. yeah sorry should have said, anyone that actually rides their bikes may want to pop some double sided sticky pads on the inside of the switchgear just to make sure it doesn’t move around in any way :wink:

Like all the best fighters it’s worth the wait I promise;):smiley:

Seriously, the switcgear is clamped by the half rounds and doesn’t move a bit.:cool:

Cheers Choprocker - I ordered a set of Renthals just after it failed the MOT - otherwise I probably would have bought yours off you ;)Thanks Huckero - that’s a brilliant tip about lining up the lugs - I’ll definitely remember it for the future - I was in a bit of a rush though to get the bike through the MOT and sawed of the lugs a la Chunky - there was movement off the switchgear casing on the throttle side - as the throttle is attached to the switchgear this meant that the cables were moving also (not good :w00t: ) - so I attached a small jubilee clip to the bars inside the switch gear casing to stop it moving.

I’m going to follow Ad’s advice and wrap some tape around the bars where the switchgear sits to prevent any slippage on the clutch side.

Thanks for the advice fellas - as I’ve had to fit renthals I’m gonna spray it black, and fit a fruity pipe and a bellypan. I might stick a new shock on it too if I can find something nice and cheap.

A friend of mine did it on his hornet 900 and he had no problem with the switch gears, Because the bars had holes in them for the switch gears to slot into.

That was handy! Perhaps they were original equipment (stock honda) bars?

They were silver renthal ones, He bought then brand new from Renthal he did say he wanted Hornet ones, But i thought they were all universal, Iv got some Renthal bars that have holes drilled in them near the end for switch gears to slot into and they came like that.