Have sold my stunt ready f4i to a fella in Cyprus
So have picked up another one thats completely stock at a nice price 
and going to do a stunt build thread as there not alot out there on the web
here is how the bike is at present
Will Update as i go along…
Just Sourcing Parts At Present And Waiting for some to come in to get the ball Rolling…
Will Be Getting Parts From Stuntbikestore.com check it out
Great Service And Great Parts
OOOh - will be looking forward to this thread…
Aw can’t you find a category D one to modify. That one looks pretty nice.
this should be interesting 
the pics make it look nicer then is…
i did look for written off ones but the price i paid for this was good and with the parts i wont need that will sell it would be about half the price of a cat d or c
So think this is better option
Just a Update
Managed to Get 02/03 R1 Forks, Front wheel and Spindle and gold spot calipers and also the 954 yokes to put this in… and also 2nd idle cable
Just need some decent clip ons 50mm and handbrake and Brake lines to get the ball rolling
And order the stunt parts - Sub Frame, 12 O’clock bar rear caliper bracket and the calipers to go in
Hopefully start this in next few weeks
So Been Ages But Been Rather Busy
But Got Some Bits Done Today Here Was The Bike This Morning
Today I First Done The Clean air Mod And Also 2nd Idle Aswel
So Firstly You Disconnect The Battery, Remove The Tank And Airbox So You Have This:
First The Clean Air Mod Which Is To Stop The Engine Hydrolocking When You Hit The Deck Also Apparently Gives You Extra BHP But I Cant Confirm This
So You Start With The 4 Pipes And Air Valve You Will Be Removing The Air Valve And Pipe 4…
So After Removing The Pipes From The Valve And Taking Pipe 4 And Valve Away You Need To Use A T Piece To Connect The Remaining Pipes So They End
Up Like This:
Now The Number 4 Pipe Went To The Air Box So Now That Needs Blocking Off I Used A Bolt Here Is Where Needs Blocking Off Under Airbox
So Clean Air Mod Done Now 2nd Idle Cable I Used One From CBR 600 F4I
The End Of Idle Thats Un-threaded Will Need To Be Shaved Down About 3 Quarters Of The Way Otherwise You Be Revving At About 5000-6000 revs as Idle is longer then stopper screw
You Need To Remove Stopper Screw Which Is Pictured Below
Once Removed Looks Like This
Now Time To Add The Idle
Then Routed It Out Of Side Of Frame
I Also Removed Front End Ready To Put New Front End On So Currently Looks Like This
Was Going To Put New Front End On But See Bottom Yoke Thread As Run Into Problem…
Next Time Will Be Doing The Start In Gear Mod And Also Tilt Switch Bypass And Putting Front End In…
So Today Had Some Spare Time And Put The Front End In
Managed To Get Another Bottom Yoke Off Ebay
So Whilst Was Changing Front End Done Head Bearings Aswel
Used A 954 Bottom Yoke With LSL Top Yoke With 2002 R1 Forks And Wheel And Racetek Clip Ons Althought I Am Going To See How Get On With Them May Change To Straight Bars In Future…
First Change Bearings And Put Yokes On Is Straight Swap Just Bigger Yokes To Put 50mm Forks
Then Forks, Wheel And Clip Ons So Is Currently Like This…
Looking good Dan!
What is hydroblocking? Just out of interest…
And what’s the reason for cutting down that idle screw?
Cheers
Hydrolocking is basically when fuel gets into where not meant and the piston trys to compress it which can ruin the engine but by routing the air flow different can avoid this… happens when hit deck hard which can happen alot with a squid like me
And the idle screw when is standard has the bike at about 5000-6000 revs which is not the way forward as is alot longer then the stopper screw so but cutting down runs at 1000 revs and can change to desired level quicker then standard idle as straight to throttle bodys
So been ages since actually done anything on bike as working on others and other commitments but finally got to do some stuff today
Wanted to put Wheelie Sump on… what it does is trap oil and 180’ the oil pick up so you dont get oil starvation and break your engine…
Also wanted to change oil and filter and new coolant…
Here is one i bough from guy in states i deal with
But that wasent the case as had to remove the downpipes to drop sump off but the studs where all messed up so have ordered new ones and also the drain plug bolt on water pump snapped so now have the fun of drilling that out hopefully all be sorted but next weekend then can actually get some more stunt parts on
Also some of the hoses are pretty ruined so going to replace them with Samco’s hpoefully
Once again been ages since updated this thread
been mad busy but my Samco’s Finally came from Racebikebitz only took 6 weeks…
So will be fitting them this weekend and doing some other mods aswel
Also will be getting triple rear caliper bracket next week for 4 piston radial calipers 
anywho will update over weekend with what been done
I’m quite looking forward to this…
Haha, il be over Saturday 
So been a while been mad busy with work but managed to get a few hours in today…
First Put Stunt Clip Ons On
Then Added Sub Cage And Pegs
Then Bigger Disc on Rear Using Floater Is 320mm Front
Then Sprocket 65 teeth cos you just gota
And finally put rear wheel back on and added Caliper bracket and Calipers for some Monster Brake love
Will be doing some more when get some time hopefully during week or next week and will post up then also…
Also some of the pics came out at wrong angle… is all good from my side just when upload to here changes it strange
Put 12 Bar On Today
Also relocated ignition just drill some holes on side of air box and bolt down ignition and HISS
You got them blues at last!
gotta put gold calliper in the middle…
+1
Its only because it will look better IMO but worth it for the sake of the 2 mins it will take.
Three calipers is frigging cool though!
Was only put on like that to show it when actually riding will only have the 2 to start then when get better will have the 3…
