Adjusted my chain yesterday for the weeks commute - did all the usual checking right along the length of the chain to include tight spots - at the tightest spot the chain was 4 mm within the lower end of the recommended adjustment for the chain. So i thought great - the chains adjusted properly.This morning the bike felt different - e.g. the throttle response felt different - like the chain was too tight - nothing catatrophic - but i know the bike well enough to notice a difference.
Measure the chain when I got in and it was three to 4 mm the wrong side of the lower recommended figure for adjsutment - in other words it was too tight.
Adjusted it again - but kinda p1ssed off with myself and hope I haven’t put too much strain on the transmission.
Oh well - thought i’d share that with the only people out there who understand what the f*ck i’m talking about!
I guerss what I’m sayiing is it’s difficult to get this right sometimes because of stuff like suspension compression - e.g my manky shagged old shock might have settled into a position in which it appeared the chain was ok when in fact it was too tight.
I guesss the ultimate way to adjust a chain is have someone your weight sit on the bike when you check it - which of course in the real world is just bOIIocks really. . . :crazy:
Well I’ve pretty well given up adjusting my chain as every time I do so, I get told off by the mechanic when I take it in for a service for overtightening it even though I obey the instructions in the owner’s manual to the letter, and was of late allowing more slack.
When I took it to FWR in Kennington a couple of months ago to have the brakes seen to, they kindly offered to check/adjust the chain for free anytime I’m in the area. Not got round to doing that yet even though I ride past it twice every weekday :w00t:
It is tricky - I always adjust it slightly on the loose side before nipping up the axle nut, and can then give it a quick poke whilst sat on it to make sure it’s ok.
I’d rather have it slightly loose than slightly tight
I have put a new chain on my little Z, just waiting for bearings so I can put the rear wheel back on. It is a pain to get the tension right - it seems like you have to keep checking it and starting again. I read in the Haynes manual recently that you should be undoing (or at least loosening) the rear brake tension arm nut, which is something I wasn’t doing at chain tensioning checks in the past. A torque wrench would be useful too as I’m guessing how far to do up the spindle nut.
I’ve done that before. In my more niaeve days of biking I though if I tightened it up it would work out the tight spots and be more even. Plus on most bikes the load on the suspension has an affeect on the tension. These days I just carry a can of lube and they adjust it when it goes for a service.
I adjusted mine for 1st time the other day while on centre stand, when back down on 2 wheels, it’s just within limit in the haynes manual. I hadn’t thought about the effect of my weight on it as well.
I quite like how it feels, feels like increased engine breaking, but noticed engine sounds like its working harder(?). Slightly worried now about increased wear and tear, might loosen it off a bit
Modern O-ring and X-ring chains shouldn’t require adjusting very often. I hardly ever adjust mine. They run slightly loose on both my bikes, but I clean, lube and check them with meticulous regularity. Both chains are lasting ages.
