Cheers for the replies all - I’m not out to make a stubby, just lose around 6" off the can.
I feel fine about the aspect of doing it, but want ot know how it will affect the running off the bike - will it require a re-tune on a dyno?
I’m running the Triumph High level race exhaust ( and tune ) at the moment, and the new exhaust, which is also high level, is longer. So the plan was to cut it down to same length or a tad less.
This is what I’m thinking needs doing ( the people above quoted £100 )
-Drill out end cap rivets
-Pull off CF sleave - remove packing
-Pull off metal inner body tube ( if there is one )
-Cut off 8" from both
-Cut out 8" from middle inner flow tube ( one with loadsa holes )
-Weld the 2 ‘ends’ of above back together
-Re-assemble - repack
-Re-rivet end cap back on
Is that basically it? Or have I missed summin?
What type of rivet gun do I need - there seem to be all sorts on Ebay, and not really looking for a state of the art one for a one off job. But must do the job. Also, what kind of rivets should I use, as I want it to look pukka? Stainless steel ones?
Someone from another site ( he’s a bit of a stickler ) says it would run the risk of running lean, and in the extreme runniong hot that could result in a holed piston ( bear in mind I do a lot of trackdyas and am not throttle shy )
“Someone from another site ( he’s a bit of a stickler ) says it would run the risk of running lean, and in the extreme runniong hot that could result in a holed piston ( bear in mind I do a lot of trackdyas and am not throttle shy [Smile] )”
There is a thing called “tuned length” - basically the length [and therefore cc volume] of a pipe as well as the backpressure that goes with the engine’s state of tune. Most decent exhaust manufacturers dyno test bikes with differing exhaust setups to find the best, by shortening it you are probably undoing this good work. Likewise, some performance pipes only really work [give the full, designed advantage] with some engine tuning e.g. freeer inlet/air filter, more fuel in, [injection or carb] gasflowing, wilder cams, bigger valves, and increased compression.
Have discovered that mine is bent upwards following my little rear end last year. As a result the lh rear indicator is being melted by the exhaust. Its also got a little louder as well
Sounds like you need to add a Tuneboy to your shopping list if you’re going to mess around with that pipe
Just a couple of things I’d like to add, if you’re fitting new pot-rivets make sure you get steel ones, the normal ali ones will vibrate loose fairly quickly and require doing again.
Also ref the “tune length” and running lean, if you’ve not had the bike tuned for a race can and are shortening that then you do run the risk of it being slightly lean and exacerbating it with the shortning, however if it’s already been tuned for a straightthrough can you should be fine.
On most race cans one end of the internal tube is slightly flared to fit over the end cap pipe and isn’t welded.
) - Was wanting to see how it compares to my Triumph CF HL can.
