Dead Battery - Effect on electrics (SV1000s)

Well, after a couple of months off the road, I decided to see how my baby was fairing sitting in my garage, key inserted and turned - nothing. Attached my charger, nothing, battery was totally dead. Called the AA who attached their “battery booster” then the strangest thing …

The rev counter spun, so can only presume is was some sort of diagnostic and she then started first time. With it in neutral, I revved the engine and somehow, at a standstill reached 150mph, that’s right, whenever I revved the engine I apparently started moving. After a couple of minutes, a red light and FI started flashing, indicating a fault somewhere.

I realise that I need to get a diagnostic machine to read the fault code, I’ve looked though the possible fault codes it could be, does anyone think that it could be related to the low voltage coming from the battery, in relation to the diagnostic which it appeared to perform when the AA’s booster was initially connected, in conjunction with the apparent stationary speed, could the voltage have been “spiking” the ecu causing a phoney fault?

What do you think guys? Thoughts would be much appreciated.


I intend of buying and fitting a new battery asap, so I guess I’ll see if this fault continues with a fresh source of volts.

I had afew dead (low) bateries on all 3 bikes and never had you say replace battery and see if that solves the prob

To get the bike into dealer mode all you need is a bit of wire. Under the riders seat on the left is the loom you’ll find a White connector block with a rubber cover. Remove that and yOull see a 6 pin block but only 4 of the holes have pins. 1, 2, 3(no pin), 4,5,6(no pin)

Put a piece of wire into the two pins next to eachother pins 1 and 2 when the bike is off.

Turn the bike on and in the bottom right corner of the dash it’ll show up any codes is c13, c21 etc

Flat batteries can cause all sorts of odd faults, The spike things quite rare to happen, I wouldn’t recomend jumping a bike although alot of people do it…

best to get a good battery and go from there, take the battery off and get it fully charged and tested or fit a new one.

If you still have issues time to get it looked at…

Thanks for feedback guys, will try new battery first then see if it’s ok before checking for dealer codes.

Would the ECU have been completely reset and lost off of it’s “parameters”?

  • Gulp * £70 for a new battery! :crazy:

I’ve used MDS before, infact I picked up fromt here place in Enfield.

I think this is the right battery for your bike but ask obviously.

£51.99 incl free delivery, bit better.

Seems like same battery, but for £39.99.

Do I pay for what I get?

yuasa are the best

Cheers guys,

Battery ordered, will let you know if electrics are still acting odd when fit.

my thou did odd things when my battery finally gave up ( we think it was the original!?) so what 6 years old?

the clocks and alarm did all sorts of ood shit, fitted new battery and off i went, clocks were all fine:)

Yup, am still on the original battery myself, so likewise, 6 years old. Battery should be delivered today (out for delivery according to DHL), so will fit it asap and give an update.

Cheers guys.

She lives, all is well and she’s purring.

The new battery did the trick and no faults!!! wwwaaahhhooooo.

Thanks for help all.