The bugger this morning would not respond to u the fob. Final straw. Got to go. Tried my spare too.
Tried plugging the optimate in too. No response. Had enough of this bloody thing now. Got to go. My usual dealer doesn’t do Datatool. That’s Woodford. Any suggestions who to try?
Might have to be mobile as I can’t disarm it.
#lateforwork #grrrrrrrrr
Thanks,
b.
I tore mine out, their notorius little fuckers. Useless anyway, no-one bats an eye lid at a car alarm anymore. Big fat chain’s the way to go.
get rid of it there plenty of info on the web to bypass the alarm wiring
Oh don’t. It’s had me up midwinter 3am trying to stop it squealing. Drains the battery in no time. Prob cost me 2 batteries over 5 years. She’s chained down well. I’ll check out how to diy but I useless at putting things back together reliably.
Cheers.
Costs £60-£80 to have it removed. Best few notes I’ve ever spent on the beast. Make sure its done by someone who knows what their doing, theirs a danger of cooking your electric’s.
Is it the battery in the fob that’s died? I managed to have the batteries in my main and spare fob go at the same time with the last bike. Other than that, I never had any issues with it.
Deleted - double post.
There are two big cable connectors on the inside, one block of six and one of eight. Here are those colour codes:
Orange –led indicator
Yellow/green – external alarm/ radio pager
Grey – led indicator
Green – protective trigger switch (to fire if a bike panel is lifted)
Green – protective trigger switch
Brown – to something that goes live with the ignition switch
Black x2 – earth
Red – power
White – immobilisation
White – immobilisation
Pink – indicators
Pink – indicators
Yellow –starter immobilisation
Yellow - starter immobilisation
Stuff like indicators are just spliced onto the bikes main loom leaving it operational, so if you cut the power to the unit they just work as normal. But the immobilisation part cuts the main loom and sends the circuit via the alarm, so these have to be bridged. There’s normally a circuit break immobilising the starter motor, and another immobilising the ignition or fuel pump. These are controlled by the white and yellow tags on the smaller cable block. So just bridge both the whites, and bridge the yellows to bypass the unit while leaving all of the wiring in place
Yeah. What he said :-/
you know me im the tightest Flucker going & wont depart with any money if possible
thanks wise found that post with PIC. Does sound easy… Will try and report. So looking forward to smashing the unit up…
Janey - for the record other things have been random times when it goes off - occasional. And going off during winter close to freezing temps over night. Needed to go into maintenance mode in these times. Drains battery. This was final straw. And mine sounds like good experience!
OK this is not as easy as it looks on t’internet. I’ve cut the alarm unit out and looking at 6 black wires. And wife is home in 20 mins…
Woot! Bike starts alarm ripped. Headlights not working. But at least I can ride it to get it seen to 
and luggage space under seat now lol
You could of just re-synced it, takes 2mins! Lol
#triedthat
