First video at 720p, the second one is at 1080p both filmed with a Drift HD170 Stealth.
Any constructive criticism is welcome!
First video at 720p, the second one is at 1080p both filmed with a Drift HD170 Stealth.
Any constructive criticism is welcome!
You’re very lucky having weather and roads like that. I liked both videos
Thanks mate.
Yes, I’m lucky.
There is a downside though - the biking season lasts about 9 months.
My heart bleeds
Ok first minute of the first video two things I spotted, relatively small, but something to think about.
On the first long right hander, you were drifting in and out to the edge, it might be worth trying to maintain your speed and hug the outside line (centre line on a right hander) constantly around the corner until you see your “apex” (obviously remembering to put safety first, if something comes move out the way!), the apex is the part of the corner where you first see the road ahead opening up to you, obviously on the road no point hugging it like a track, but can then move across the at the apex point.
You can see where this would help in your movement immediately after the corner where you had to zip across your lane to be on the right side of the road for the next corner, if you move through the apex you will be more centred for the next corner, whichever way it happens to turn.
The next corner, and this may be down to you riding in a group behind a tractor, but your revs were dropping as you were going through the corner, while an in-line four doesn’t suffer much engine braking it does suffer some and this will lead to weight shifting to your front tyre, probably never cause a problem at the speed you were travelling and may be something you are already aware of. I watched the revs on a lot of the other corners and while Matt might suggest they were constantly very low, you were not doing the same thing, so perhaps merely down to adapting to group riding and the way others were riding.
On your first overtake, which was smooth and nothing wrong with it, just relaying some information given to me on a Bikesafe, which was this: When overtaking, move out, then overtake, don’t move out and overtake in one motion, if anything changes up ahead, you can move back in, if you don’t have time to do this, you probably shouldn’t be overtaking. Doing this gives you a much better view of the road ahead and gives you options should anything change. Bear in mind your bike can accelerate very very quickly and there is very little need for you to make the move in a single shot.
About 3 minutes in on the first video you are taking a left hander, a car comes from the other direction, and you can see that you dip the bike in, and then have to straighten up, and dip it in again. This I think relates to the first point about hugging the outside of the lane until you can see your apex, you should only have to turn the bike once in the corner, unless the corner changes drastically, you could have just been put off by the car coming the other way, just saying that the point in paragraph 1 is at play again. You also took the entire corner on the centre line, which is not the best place to be. At 3:17 you took the corner as suggested here, so you probably know this just lapsing while riding or being put off by cars.
Body movement: This is an odd one, some of the best riders I know, don’t move an inch in their seat, don’t stick out their knee, and are far more competent than I am. However, I think for riders that have neither the experience nor training of those particular riders, body movement can be a great thing to learn. The mathematics of it go like this, the centre mass of the vehicle will help to pull the vehicle around the corner. Why is this a great thing to learn, because one day, sooner or later, you will take a corner too hot, you will take a corner that scares you a little and being able to move your body off the bike significantly to increase that centre mass gives you something to do in that corner, rather than letting your fear take over and causing you too crash or stray into the wrong lane. You really need to get your arse off the seat, so that your left bum cheek is sitting on the edge of the seat (or right for left handers). Bend your elbows or lower your head, do whichever you feel more comfortable doing, doing one will automatically do the other anyway, you can’t lower your head without bending your elbows and bending your elbows will bring your head down, your head weighs quite a lot, placing that over the tank and hanging it off to the side of the tank, will add to the centre mass of the bike and help it around that corner, plus this is realistically the only way you will ever get your knee down on the tarmac if it ever occurs to you to do it (without taking massive risks in lean angle). You moved a little at 5:17, but nowhere near enough to make any real sort of difference.
You know I wouldn’t take the time to write this if I wasn’t trying to help Garret, so don’t take this as knocking your riding, you obviously had fun and were safe, just some pointers from looking at the first video, some you might already know, some you might have simply lapsed on, but hopefully something you can take from this to improve upon or learn from.
Steve - as I mentioned in the first post ‘any constructive criticism is welcome’ and your certainly is; thank you very much for taking the time to give it.
Yea, some of the things you pointed out I was aware of and lapsed on certainly the road positioning one. Although I was in two minds as to how much I should move my body and how much difference it would actually make to the ‘physics’ of the corner rather than just looking and feeling cool. It’s interesting to hear someone advocating movement in this situation.
I must say though, that I had bought the bike four days prior to the filming of the video and only really been out on it once before so I have a lot to learn on this bike (not that I was an expert on any of the others ) - which I am looking forward to doing, and with the help of knowledgable individuals will succeed in doing
One of my main problems is getting used to the engine characteristics; I have never changed gear dependant on the rev counter, but always buy ‘sound and feeling’ of the enging beneath me. Coming from a single, such a lot is different and I’m apprehensive of giving it too much. It seems to me (corrections welcome) that on this engine, the sweet spot for gear changes is about 6-7k, but that’s a bit confusing given the fact that the bike redlines at double that (or whatever).
Also, it badly needs a change of fluids, the brakes are as soft as Sneaky’s toilet roll and it would also be wise to look into some suspension adjustment.
I’m defnitely having fun on it and have another video I took yesterday (to accompany some Trackmaster data) soon to be released.
Cheers mate,
G
Here’s the next one: