Wondered if you guys know what mid-range bikes are easy to do the valve clearances on?
I’m looking for a workhorse to do around 20,000 miles a year on. I’m ok mechanically for the basics like normal servicing etc, and think I’d manage fine doing the nut & lock-nut type valve adjustments on ickle bikes like the CBF125, but I’m after something a bit bigger - maybe around 500-700cc. I reckon I could do the clearances on shim-over-bucket engines like the Suzuki GS500, but most of the bikes I’d really like for a workhorse such as the Versys, ER-6F, CBF600, Bandit, & Fazer all seem to be the more complicated shim under bucket and I’m less confident when the work gets to the stages of lifting out cams etc :doze:
Don’t fancy an annual trip to the stealers to be relieved of a fair bit of money in return for a half-arsed job, but would like to be able to work on something that floats my boat a little more than a GS500. Any suggestions?
Don’t fear the shims :),
its just a case of taking your time, follow the manual until your competent, checking and double checking timing marks when removing/replacing the cams etc,
When it comes to the shims it’s a simple bit of maths
draw out a plan/shadow diagram so as not to mix them up etc.
As for which bike, I don’t think it really matters, for your first time it’ll be slow and steady work, as long as you’ve got the workshop manual for that bike then go for it
Or pop down to OMC to do it there until you get confident. At least there you’ll have someone who can help if things go wrong or if you’re not sure, without having to pay mechanics full fees…
My africa twin is locknut, so I’d be pretty sure that all the other bikes with the same basic motor are. The Dullville and the Transalp etc… These motors are in a pretty soft state of tune. My XRV is 60 hp. So it’s kind to consumables. 8000 miles out of a rear tyre. 50K out of a chain and sprox.
Easiest to do clearances on is the boxer BMW engines. My 1150 is a joy to service. Piece of piss.
It’s really easy if you take the entire engine out and put it on a bench. From what we saw at the OMC you just need to allow yourself enough time to carry out the procedure and don’t get frustrated. It wasn’t rocket science but it was definitely science.
In my humble opinion, you’re better off not worrying about specifically looking for a bike that has easy valve checks…
Worry about getting an economical bike where the rest of the servicing is easy and cheap. Something that uses less oil/tyres/chains/petrol. Calipers that don’t seize or need regular rebuilds. Brake discs aren’t cheap so take brake wear into consideration.
That way you’ll save money in the long run, and if you need help with the valve checks you could pay for it the first time to see how, then do it yourself after that.
My XS is also piss easy . It has little covers you remove to check and adjust the valves , so you need take nowt off the engine :). Also has no oil filter just a screen and I use the same oil as a diesel van or truck .
Why would anyone want to own a CX500 these days? Honestly, they were shite back in the 70s/80s when they were new. They’re bloody awful now. Reliable yes, but still bloody awful.
Good luck finding a decent one now. I can’t remember the last time I saw one on the road. They’ve all been dispatched to death years ago.
Well, firstly the fellas primary concern is ease of maintaining the valve train and IMO the CX range has to be the easiest bar Harleys and Buells with their hydraulic lifters.
Secondly, he said he wants a workhorse and there is no doubt these fall well and truly in this category.
Thirdly, only people who didn’t know how to ride them thought they were shite. Shaft drive and Torque Reaction takes some getting used to.:Whistling:
And finally, there are still a few low mileage examples knocking about if you are patient
Thanks for all the replies. Reason I asked the question in the first place is because I was all set to go for something like a Versys, SV650S, etc for daily commuting, then I realised I’d be checking the valve clearances every 9 months. When I read up on it for the SV it all looked do-able but silly things like re-fitting the cams correctly or re-fitting the cam-chain tensioners looked like a faff.
I’m the kind of person who buys a new mobile and within half an hour of opening the box, it’s ready to be launched at the floor an smashed to pieces because I’m trying to figure out to to delete all the sh1te like facebook and twitter from the home-screen, and that’s on a basic Nokia your granny would use.
I know the clearances would likely not need shimmed every time, particularly once the motor has a few miles on it. Most other things on a bike I’m happy to tackle with the workshop manual for assistance but shimming valves is probably more a job for a calm and logical person - I have my moments, but brute force, ham-fistedness and when neither of these work, violence, are my usual modus operandi
That Suzi GS500 at my local stealer is looking attractive, or maybe I should buy a single cylinder 2-valve Vision 110 and look like a right nobber but at least I’d be able to do the valves no bother.
Maybe someone here will put my mind at rest, tell me it’s all in my head and that twin-pot Versys’s, ER6’s, or V-twin SV’s are actually p1ss-easy to work on?
Oh dear. I’m rambling. Sure it’ll all be clearer in the morning :doze:
