Hi folks,
Looking for some words of wisdom again
I want to change the air filter on the bandit and know that I have to move the petrol tank to get to it.
Is it necessary to drain the tank before doing so? Haynes manual isn’t clear on this. /You’d think you could just turn the tap to off but you can’t and Haynes says to have it turned to ‘on’?
Also, how many miles will the bike do on a full tank, is it about 150??
Cheers
Not sure about your fuel economy, depends on how it runs.
But you can turn your tap to off and pull out the fuel, vac and overflow lines. It don’t have to be empty. Can’t really remember where to get into the air box as I’ve been running individuals for a long time.
Its an easy peasy swop tho’.
just tried to mail you this, but don’t think it worked.
Problem is there isn’t an off for the tap but looks as though if it’s to the ‘on’ setting fuel only comes out when the engine is running or trying to start it. Hope that’s right.
The devil still won’t start for ages in the morning, if I just keep my finger on the starter she goes eventually but is a real pain. Starts first time afterwards for the rest of the day, but come the morning same old problem. New plugs and battery so far so air filter is the next thing.
Really, no off? On is fine but it may trickle out. Just remember to prime the carbs before your switch it to on again. Should be fine, it will soon suck it through.
It might be worth looking for a small leak in your carbs, perhaps they are draining when left for a long period of time?
Thanks for the manual section.
Doesn’t seem to be a smell of petrol or anything but haven’t checked for leaks carefully. Will do now though.
I have an inline filter to fit as well.
Do you think it’s better to run individuals? If so can you still leave the chrome covers on the side of the bike or is it best to take them off. Must be a nice induction roar. Do you use K&Ns and do the carbs have to be rejetted or anything.
If it was a Mini I’d know all of this but this is new to me with big bikes, loads of fun though.
I’ve got the K&N twins, they are notoriously hard to set up but mine run fine. You’ll need a stage 3 kit and a run in on the dyno. But I don’t think its worth it on a 600.
Take a peep at mine, its in the for sale section - they looks loads better and add a bit on the performance. You could try some cam links and a breather. Helps keep the lump cooler.
You’ll get about 100 miles per tank around london (commuting) but up north I used to get nearer 150 but didn’t have to use the bike to commute.
No off switch, leave it in the on position, unbolt everything, then unplug the fuel lines etc and I think the vaccum caused stops the fuel coming out. We had my tank off the other day, no prob, and had only just refilled it, was heavy and tricky putting it back on, (took the two of us, with me holding it) but that was it.
The twins certainly look sweet. More than enough performance at the moment and as i have to leave it parked in London can’t have too many trick bits on it. That’s why I was thinking of leaving the side covers on if I did have them.
Thanks Rockerchic, that’s helpful. Looks like it’s a 100mpg as I commute into London. I’ll try and run the tank down before I move it then, good excuse for a ride. Have you had any trouble starting with yours??
Have a 2002 600 but would imagine is the same(ish).
To reconfrim what others have said, leave the tap ‘on’ and it should be fine (as long as it has not been fiddled with) you will get a small leakage from the pipe at first, just have a rag ready.
It is worth doing it with an empty tank, but is not too difficult. I found having a small piece of soft wood about the size of a fag packet (10) handy to prop up one side of the tank while resting the other on a rag on the frame helps, as it saves trying to hold the tank with one hand and reach under with the other to get to the pipes.
Try an remember the routing of the drain / air pipes on the right hand side (sitting on bike) as i could not disconnect mine and had to pull them out with the tank.
Good luck !
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Thanks Goat
Couple of thoughts on the starting.
Is the choke working correctly (or at all)? easier to check without the tank, but you should see a bar moving on one side of the carb when the lever is pulled.
When you have the tank off, check the vacuum hose from the carb to the fuel tap for leaks.
If the air filter is a bit clogged it should start more easily when cold (richer), but worth checking replacing anyway
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I wondered if the choke was working. You don’t know which side of the carbs the lever is do you. Easy to look but if you happened to know would speed the process up.
So hard to see anything on a bike compared to a car, should be much easier with the tank up though.
On the carb by your left knee at the top when you pull the choke lever towards you a small brass rod should emerge about 15mm. As I said earlier mine is a 2002, but would guess the setup is simular or the same.
Steve
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That’s helpful, ta!
She had been standing for ages before Ibought her and I’ve heard that they can be tempremental if there is old fuel in the float chambers, do you know if you can drain this out without taking the carbs off?
Not sure on the Bandit as have not considered the option, but on my old GS (similar setup) it would have be possible but very fiddly and not recommended.
It’s not so much the fuel sitting in the bowls as you have already had it running and that should have been long gone, but the residue that cakes the inside of the carbs and blocks the airways etc. You would need to get the carbs off and strip down / clean. Getting them off of not too difficult but would recommend a manual & don’t rush it.
Would leave this as a last resort unless you want to do abit more learning!
Just been to look at the choke…not working properly at all.
Adjusted the cable up but still doesn’t pull enough. Looks like I’ll have to put a new cable in. Is that a tank out job too?
Yep, easy enough tho’. Oh and you’ll have to open up your switchgear. 
you had it running I thought so I would not worry too much about the carbs…the fuel tank is vacuum controlled if I remember right and therefore does not need an off as no fuel will flow until there is a vacuum, ie the engine is running…change the diaphragm if there is one as they can rot but not for about 20 years…are you still having running problems…or are you just giving her a service…if the choke is not working the bandit will not start…they like a lot of choke in almost any weather, when started from cold…Dont go stripping your carbs as resetting them is not a job for the beginner…Have you done a compression test…if not get a cheap tester, only a few quid, or ask if anyone has one on here who lives close by…
