I have a 09 600RR and mine is hard wired to the battery. It doesn’t drain the battery if nothing is plugged in because there is not a complete circuit. The inline fuse is a good idea, looks like that kit comes with one.
My satnav is hard wired too and only drains the battery when the unit is in the mount.
I’d always fit a relay because I like to be able to leave stuff plugged into it and not be concerned about it going flat. There’s no technical need for it (it’s just idiot-proofing) - you could just get that socket and attach one cable to each battery terminal.
Alright, thanks guys. I’m just planning to use my phone as GPS on longer journeys so nothing will be plugged in at all times. I’ll get this installed tonight!
in the past, I’ve left a usb adapter plugged into the fag lighter socket under my seat and the step-down load from 12v to 5v* almost flattened my battery overnight.
*I don’t know much about electrics but that was the only thing plugged in.
To get it to run off the tail light or something you do have to splice it; you also then run a bigger risk of blowing the fuse on the lights if what you’re plugging in (tries to) draw enough of a current in addition to the lights.
Personally, I’d either run a relay off whatever switched live you’ve got and do it ‘properly’ or just wire it straight to the battery.
If you want the 12v auxiliary socket to be always live just wire it directly to the battery, change the fuse to 5 amp
If you want the 12v auxiliary socket to power on/off with the ignition/side lights splice the relay into the running lights just to switch the relay, it draws hardly any power from the lighting circuit. Then wire the relay to the battery and auxiliary socket like so
+12v red wire from battery to relay terminal 87 via a 5 amp fuse
-12v black wire from battery to relay terminal 86
+12v wire spliced from side lights loom to relay terminal 85
+12v red wire from auxiliary socket to relay terminal 30
-12v black wire from auxiliary socket also to relay terminal 86
The advantage of the relay set up is that if you want to run more accessorieslater, heated grips, gloves, jackets etc its fairly easy to upgrade by wiring the relay +12v terminal 30 to a connector block and then draw all the 12v power wires from there via separate 5/10 amp fuses, note the wiring and fuse between the battery and relay will need to be heavy enough to take all the additional current.
Also the 12v to 5v rectifier is a good call, you can get them with various end plugs to fit directly to what ever it is you want the 5v power for, I use one with a mini USB to power a TomTom.
The double USB adapters are essential once the 12v auxiliary is up and running, you’ll find all manner of gadgets to plug in there.
So… thanks again for the input about the relay. I opted to just do it simpler wired up the 12v socket the other week.
Bike starts up and works fine, didn’t catch fire or anything so that’s great! Battery is charging I presume seeing as it’s still working after a week. Sadly, the socket doesn’t seem to get any power though. I’ve even bought a new USB converter before testing it with a voltmeter. Is there a chance that I’ve wired this up wrong? Wired it straight to the battery so I can’t see how wrong that can go… or perhaps the socket is just broken?
The reading was taken from within the socket. One pin on the circle at the end and one pin on the side wall. I checked the reverse as well…
If it doesn’t rain this weekend I’ll take the side panels off again and take a look… Just wondered what I should look out for. Will double check the fuse etc.
Use the continuity tester setting on the volt meter and check for continuityacross the fuse bladesfrom centre pin to end of red wirefrom side wall to end of black wire