Hi, I was riding my 06 CBR600RR the other day through very heavy traffic that I was unable to filter through. For the first time since owning the bike for a couple of years, when setting off in first, the bike cut out.
The temperature on the dash was around 108C. I could start it up immediately and move off. However this happened a few more times, always in first setting off or at low speeds in first. I noticed the rev needle ran through the rpm range before it fired up once.
I haven’t been out on a ride since but was hoping for potential causes before taking it into my mechanic. Recently, I cleaned the chain and grease built up around the kickstand so maybe it’s a sensor there but weird that it only happens at low speed when the temperature is up.
The bike runs exactly like normal otherwise.
Could it also be bad fuel?? I topped up before this happened with supreme unleaded from Esso.
This hasn’t happened before so I’m trying to isolate events that might have contributed.
I’d really suggest you take it down to the Oval motorcycle centre and let the mechanic there help you check everything out. doesn’t sound like anything you’ve done would have caused it to cut out though.
Hmm I better take it into my mechanic! The fan is coming on at the normal time but the temperature is rising to 110 which is higher than normal though not cutting out at that temperature. It’s mainly when I start to move or cruising at low speeds in 1st. Thanks!
sounds like a dodgy connection. could be a wire located in the main bunch of wires just under the lock barrel, which is a right pain in the ass.
take it somewhere to have a look.
Could be your clutch… worn clutch plates tend to warp when they get hot, so when you think you are releasing the clutch the plates are still slightly engaged causing the bike to stall. Just a theory, it happened on my VFR400 when the clutch basket was on its way out.
Did it stall, or did the engine just stop at the same time as you were trying to pull away?
Presumably 108 is rather high? What’s the normal operating temperature of it? When the rev needle spun out and back was that as you turned the ignition on, or as you hit the starter? Or some other time? Presumably it doesn’t normally do that?
Not very likely. Though it’s worth noting that unless you’ve been fiddling with it your engine doesn’t benefit from using the higher-RON fuels so you might as well just put the normal stuff in.
It could be the clutch plates… That’s plausible since I had to give it a fair amount of stick and slip the clutch to ensure it moves without stalling (like riding dry clutch dukes around small roundabouts). And it felt vague finding the biting point.
It felt like I stalled it but I haven’t done that in years (been riding about 15 years with about 5 years on this model bike). It would normally operate around 104 before the fan kicks in and brings it back down to about 102 and I get moving so it drops to <100. The rev needle happens on start up so it could just be cycling through the normal procedure. It all happened fairly quickly since I had to get moving in traffic so I can’t remember the exact sequence!
Thanks so much for your input. I’m going to take it into the mechanic on Wed so I’ll let you know what it turns out to be!
If it’s a stall then you’ve put the engine under greater load than it wanted. It’s plausible that this could be the clutch plates (since the biting point would be earlier than expected) but I’d expect that to happen gradually, and you to just keep getting used to the change until at some point you notice it’s in the wrong place, rather than for them to move by a noticeable degree while sat at the lights.
If it weren’t a stall, but was the bike cutting out, my money would be on a loose connection in the sidestand switch causing it to cut the power (as a safety switch).
If it’s going in to a mechanic, though, hopefully you’ll know in a few days anyway
The oil was changed in May and I’ve probably only ridden about 700 miles since.
The only contributing factor to the clutch theory is the very heavy traffic such that I couldn’t even filter. That hasn’t happened in ages but it was all a series of one way closures on Sat!
Turns out it is due to a corroded connection near the ignition switch. Apparently, it’s a fairly common problem as steam gets into the switches and corrodes the connection. I’m picking up the bike this afternoon and it’s only an hour’s labour and a bit on parts! Result!
