Ive been given a 1996 T80 Yamaha Townmate, Taxed and MOT’d for almost a year. Only problem the exhaust has broken and needs replacing. Bought a new one but when it came to removing the old one every bolt has been rounded off! Maybe that’s why the previous owner gave up on it!
Where the exhaust enters the cylinder head both nuts on the studs are almost totally round. Ive soaked them in penetrating oil and tried grips to no avail.
The nuts on the bracket are also rounded off.
I remember doing things like this years ago and the stud snapping off and having to use ‘easy outs’ and helicoils etc.
My local motorcycle shop doesn’t want to know as its “only a T80” and “not worth it”. Might not be worth it to them but if it gets me on the road cheaply for a year then its worth it to me.
Does anybody know who could attempt a job like this at reasonable rates and preferably local to me…I’m Romford way.
Perfect job for me just the sort of thing I take on but I am in west London . But I put my name in the hat anyways 
Ah, West London on a T80 with no exhaust might be pushing it a bit ! Will bear it in mind tho’. Ta
Throw the engine in your back pack and take it wherever you like . No one needs the whole bike to do exhaust studs .
Lol, great in theory but I’m not rounding off any more nuts, If i could guarantee the engine would come out with ease I’d do it. 
hi digger. how about welding a bolt onto the stud the heat will help to losing it but you will need undo fast .ive found this method has wk when ive wk cylinder heads
Good idea RJ. Was thinking about applying heat but need my torch which i don’t have at the mo!
I’m afraid welding is way beyond the scope of my tool kits too! 
if your able to get a welder i will come over to help out otherwise cut the exhaust and remove the the head take to a engineering w-shop i know its a lot wk but fr my experince
it looks like those studs are well also the heads rounding off
Throw the whole thing in the boot of the car then ))) I once got a CR500 crosser with both wheels on into the boot of a peugeot 309 saloon . Heat is a good starting point … now there is another option Shock and Unlock … it works the same way but uses cold instead to chill the stud so it contracts away from the head freeing the threads .maximise the effect by warming the threads in the block by running the engine for a min or so . Use lots of it on the stud dont be shy of the goodness sometimes it works so well you actually hear it ping . Available from halfords and works best on bearings that are stubborn in mag/ally rims where heat can damage finish etc ,but could help your cause too . I would also take the nut out the equation and cut it off then use a stud extractor.
Bolt remover, nut splitter and stud extractor all ordered. Getting torch back too so will attack it myself at some point this week! Wish me luck cos i’m not holding out much hope of it having a happy ending!!!:Whistling:
It will be fine once you get the nuts and exhaust out the way you will have the whole length of the stud to play with .