I’m wondering if my CG would be able to power these. Problem is that they’re both 55W, which I’d have thought is a fair bit of power considering that I had some H3’s on a previous BMW bike that I used for a bit, although I forget the Watts rating on those. Something inside me tells me that my CG is probably underpowered to support two of these?
It’s a 2002 model (the type before the most recent ES4 version), I think it’s CDI if that makes any difference. The stock bulb is a BA20d round thingy, but I’ve replaced it with a decent Ring BA20d halogen upgrade, nothing that different if I’m honest.
you will need a relay to make some more power for em etc.
if you want em wired in prperly let me know i know a wizard of a bike electrician, he based in croydon
The power available would be the same with or without a relay.
A relay is used just so that when powering equipment with a high power drain the wiring to the switches doesn’t burn out - mainly used when powering stuff like HID etc or where the wiring is particularly thin - horn switches are classics to burn out when massive hooters are put on :w00t:.
I would measure the voltage at the battery with you bike running. At the most I would probably go for a set of 25 watt lights - if only used now and again the drain might not be too bad.
Do you want them to light the road or just improve your visibility to others - if the latter then I agree with above that LED’s might be better as the power use is tiny by comparison.
One established way of making a CG more visible and to improve lighting is to fit a larger reflector to the standard headlamp. Google for advice on which alternative headlamp units fit.
Ah, I’m with you, yeah it will have a small effect I guess - the smaller wiring through the standard headlamp switch can cause a problem if a higher load is placed on it, so for twin lights they put a relay in to allow a direct flow from the battery - the main reason is to take the load off the switchgear wiring and prevent frying the switches.
I fitted a pair of “driving lamps” to mine (with relay and seperate switch) and it will lose a small amount power anyway as theres a higher load, but it hasn’t affected charging which is the main issue.
Yeah, it’s just what I thought. I assume it’s because of the stator or something “down there” inside the engine? Or am I talking rubbish?
This option is one option I’ve found, but do you think it is considered a modification in insurance terms? It’s also a little more costlier, as I don’t want some generic bowl thats Made in China to rust about 4 months in. I’d rather look into getting the newer CG ES4 headlight bowl (and the reflector from the same ES4), but I can tell it’s probably more money than it’s worth. Anybody know what bulbs the newer CG’s take? H3?
Not rubbish - the stator is part of the generator. They are designed as a cheap, simple uncomplicated bike that will run forever with minimum maintenance and to keep them cheap and simple they are not designed to produce much electrical power. If you run more power than the bike can supply the lights will dim, the battery will run down, the wiring may melt and the fuses may blow so it is not worth it. The larger reflector does work though. I understand there are a range of reflectors from other bikes that will fit, which you can probably pick up cheap on ebay or something.
Any changes from standard are seen as mod’s in insurance terms, but its whether you choose to tell them
I dont bother telling them about my aftermarket exhausts as they would hike the cost up, even though they are cheaper than OEM and also louder and at times alerted cagers to my presence - so I should actually get money off
Up to you, but I’d tell the insurance company about any modifications to a bike, even something as simple as adding another driving light or a top box. Don’t give the weasels a chance to escape if you have to make a claim.
I’ve declared 17 mods, including road legal exhausts (well, they are road legal in Liechtenstein) and the trivial accessories socket and I’ve not yet been charged extra.
Back to the original question. It’s all about generator output. Check your handbook (or Google) for that and make sure you don’t get too close to that figure with lighting load. (The motor needs a bit of that to keep running.)
You can buy some extra for the front by fitting LED rear/brake lights and indicators.
If all else fails, fit a pair of braced bars and a big re chargeable torch to the brace. Not pretty but works really well. Oh. And still legal, as long as you have your main lights on, as it can be “mechanically dipped”.
If your bike has electric start then the alternator is rated at 155 watts. That could be enough to run extra lights, just add up all the electrical loads. 60 watts for main beam, 5 watts for tail light, a few tiny bulbs in the instuments, maybe 5 0r 10 watts for the ignition, two more 55 watt lights is a bit ambitious. If it hasn’t got electric start then the alternator only gives 92 watts, so you’ve got almost nothing to spare without any extras. LED lights draw very little current, Halfords do a pair of high intensity LEDs (one front, one rear) for £30. I reckon you’d be able to wire them in without relays, too.
