Why 75% front brake and 25% back is wrong

This article was posted by someone I knew from Ixion and IAM many years ago.
And I am sure he will not mind me re-posting it here.

If anything it is even more relevant and correct now.

And I think motorcycle braking should have its own topic not be discussed under a Brazilian shooting :stuck_out_tongue:


This article was originally posted to the Ixion mailing list by the author (Hoddy Hodson) on Fri, 29 Mar 1996 08:59:08 +0100.

Many motorcycle instructors, from Part 1 up to Police Advanced, still quote the following old chestnut: you brake 75% Front and 25% Rear (on a dry road - 50%:50% in the wet) .

This advice is also enshrined in Motorcycle Roadcraft and the IAM Group Handbook. So it s a pity that, nowadays, it is wrong.

Progress changes things

The 75%:25% rule made its first appearance a LONG time ago. The early diagrams explaining it show drum braked Triumph Speed Twins, so it s not unfair to assume that the same 75%:25% rule has been around at least 25 or 30 years.

The old Speed Twins and their ilk had little in common with today s motorcycles They had a twin leading shoe front brake of about 7" diameter [I can’t find anyone who’s old enough to be certain] operated by a bowden cable from a handbrake lever. The rear brake was single leading shoe, about 6" diameter, but operated by a sturdy 10" long footbrake lever, by a leg honed to muscular perfection by kick-starting the damn bike in the first place.

And the tyres ? They were no wider than the widest mountain bike tyres of the 1990s, they were poorly designed even compared to the car tyres of the day (some cars already had tubeless tyres, but all motorcycle tyres were high aspect ratio crossplies). The usual tread pattern was ribbed front and block rear. And the all important contact patch was long and thin - not least because the wheels were 20 or more in diameter.

But above everything else, it s the design of motorcycle frames that has changed. The old Speed Twin and its like were TALL. The vertical engine, surmounted by a spine tube frame (with enough gap to allow daily tappet adjustment) meant a high riding position. The centre of gravity of a bike (with rider aboard) in the '60s was probably a foot or more higher than it is on most 'bikes today.

And there were two sorts of front forks. Rock hard (race 'bikes and those carrying heavy Rickman fairings) and spongy soft - prone to dive to the fork bottoms under the lightest braking. The nett result of either type was that, under braking, the front went almost rigid - like a pushbike’s forks.

If you’ve got locked forks, a narrow (low grip) front tyre and a centre of gravity that small planes have to detour around, it s not surprising that you’ re cautious of using your front brake. If that brake is a grabby drum brake (they "self-servo"ed so the braking effort was not proportional to how hard your hand squeezed the lever) you do as much as you can with the controllable rear brake. And, anyway, a locked rear was controllable even on a Speed Twin.

New Tricks Motorcycle design has moved on since the old dogs of the 1960s. In fact, it had already moved on far enough to make the 75%:25% rule questionable by the '80s.

The BIG sign that 75%:25% is wrong is that most 'bikes these days (since the RD350, at least) can do “stoppies” - and not crash immediately after. In a stoppie you push the front brake to its limits, you brake so hard that the rear leaves the ground. This is neither big nor clever; but it does prove to the most hide bound among us that that bike, at that instant, was stopping using 100% Front brake.

I’d now like you to think about proddy racing. Production racing because (apart from Owen’s missing alternator - sorry, Mr. Scrutineer) the 'bikes used should be the same as those you meet on the road. Now, I understand that, in a race, most competitors are trying to ride as fast as they can - they are not there to put on a show of stunt riding to impress the crowd.

Yet, horror of horrors; they do NOT brake 75%:25%. Stand at the braking point at the end of the straight (do not stand on the bend at the end of the straight: it s where Reg Ford usually smashes into the crowd). You will see many of the rider lift their rear tyre clear of the deck under maximum braking. They are doing stoppies - they are braking 100% Front and 0% Rear.

And they are not doing this deliberately, to show off (apart from Jamie Whitham at the end of a race!). They are doing it because, nowadays, it s the natural, instinctive way to brake as hard as the 'bike can possibly brake.

What s new, Pussycat? Modern motorcycles (as above, this includes most road 'bikes designed since the RD350) are radically different from that old Speed Twin. The few that aren’t, Retros like the Zephyr and trail 'bikes, probably still brake 75%:25%.

[Apparently, one of the first things Geraint Jones teaches on his Moto-X school is how to brake . You do this by learning to stop a motocrosser from 50mph, on mud, using only the front brake. So, even on the dirt, there s scope for more front brake use - if you have the cojones!]

Modern bikes are lower - by about a foot (compare a GPZ500 with a 750 Triumph - the GPZ is more powerful, too). Modern bikes tend to be shorter, by around 5 inches. We have smaller wheels these days - fronts are 16" to 19" they used to be 18" to 21". And wheel widths, and hence the contact patches, are at least twice as wide as they used to be. The modern tyres are stickier - even in the wet. And they are radials (or bias belted) so they deform to grip the road far better. And the low sidewalls help the 'bike’s centre of gravity stay low. And front suspension, even if you don’t have upside down fork legs, is ten times better at absorbing ripples that might upset a tyre under braking.

Brakes

You’ll notice I haven’t mentioned the brakes. I think the grabbiness of 1960’s brakes, and the need to stand on that big footbrake lever, is one of the root causes of the 75%:25% rule. That was how people found they had to brake, so they assumed it was the best way to brake.

Since then, Triumph have died; been reborn; died again and been reborn as a far better bike. Rules for braking written to suit the 1990s SpeedTriple would differ a lot from those written for the Speed Twin of the '60s.

But the masters of motorcycle design are the Japanese. Now, believe it or not, they tend to design things to do their job. Very occasionally they screw up, but most things they get right. Mudguards keep the mud off. Footpegs don’t bend under your weight. You can reach the levers and the switches at the same time. [The old Triumphs, sad to relate, didn’t manage any of these things].

So we d expect modern Jap bikes to have brakes suited to their function - stopping the bike as quickly as possible. So, how do they set up their brakes?

Front
Two 320mm disks, each gripped by 6-piston callipers.
Rear
One 220mm disk, gripped by a 2-piston calliper.

(These specs are from the new Kawasaki 750, but just about any 1995 or '96 Superbike has a similar setup).

At a conservative estimate, the front brakes are 5 times as powerful as the rear (remember the diameter of the disk has a big effect). And I’d bet that the foot lever is now as short as the handbrake lever.

So why have the Japs fitted brakes so out of line with the 75%:25% rule ? Are they foolish ? Is it some sort of “look at the size of my brakes, darling” fashion accessory ? Or is the 75%:25% rule just plain wrong these days ?

Answer: the 75%:25% rule is just plain wrong these days (for most modern 'bikes on most dry roads).What is the truth?The truth is, there is NO truth.

Any fixed apportionment of braking effort, front to rear is wrong. In cars, they teach taper braking - you bring the pressure up gently, to avoid a skid until the weight transfers forwards; at which point you can brake hard; and you let it off gently as you roll to a halt, to avoid a jerk when you stop.

'Bikers, too, need to learn taper braking. But as we have separate front and rear brakes, we also need to learn to taper the force from rear to front and back to rear again as we slow.

[Owners of Moto Guzzi and Honda linked brake systems can leave now - but remember, as you depart, that racing Guzzis always removed the linked brakes - they aren’t quite as good as separate systems right at the limit.]

An ideal stop goes something like this:

  1. You apply both brakes gradually and with almost equal force for the first phase of your braking

  2. The weight will transfer forwards as the front suspension compresses and your arms bend

  3. There s now more weight on the front (up to 100% if you re braking at 1g - and modern road bikes can brake at up to 1.2g)

  4. You now let off most - or all - of the rear brake and increase pressure on the front, which now has most or all of the grip. This middle phase of braking can be 100%:0% - if it is less than 85% front, you probably aren’t braking near your bike’s limits

  5. The bike slows and the forces you are exerting through the brakes and tyres diminish (the energy in the bike is proportional to the square of your speed)

  6. The front begins to rise back up on its suspension
    [If it’s an emergency, you now breath a sigh of relief and a small prayer of thanks]

  7. You taper off on the front brake - to prevent a slow speed lock up - and increase the rear brake pressure once more

  8. Even stopping from 100mph, the last 5mph is slow riding, and you should only use the rear brake for slow riding. So you do the final phase of stopping 0% Front and 100% rear

If you MUST quote a fixed apportionment of effort - I’d say it is 85%:15% - which is in line with the way JAP 'bike designers set up the brakes.

But the truth is, situations will vary which is why we should forget 75%:25%. Motorcyclists need to learn to taper brake; to balance front and rear brakes in a sensitive, reactive fashion - not to follow an outdated mathematical tenet.

And, to slip in two quick plugs - you can learn how at the Nurburgring Perfektion Training courses or on London Advanced Motorcyclist’s Machine Control Days.

Hoddy Hodson 29/3/96

This article expresses the views of the author. All care and due dilligence has been take in its composition and I fully believe it to be correct, but then I think water is wet, so who am I to judge. Feel free to copy and circulate this article, but only with this disclaimer!

In a further artical Hoddy added:

In slow riding (which I take as 10mph or less) you ONLY use the rear brake. 10mph is 10mph: whether you’ve previously been doing 5mph, 20mph or 120mph.

Even if you’ve just braked from 120 mph, you should be hoping to ride off, in full control of the 'bike, without having to stop and put a foot down. Actually, as I often point out, it’s immediately after a stop from very high speed that it is most vital to be able to ride off: 'cos you have to assume the bggrs behind you are still approaching at 120 mph and they may not brake as efficiently as you did.

WHY? do you only use the rear at low speed ?

I’m tempted to say “'Cos I tell you to !” - but if I really have to justify this very basic tenet of motorcycling:

  1. 'Cos using the front makes the forks go up ‘n’ down which ruins delicate steering. [I’m talking “feet up” slow riding, not DR style with the “magic hovercraft boots”].

  2. If you’re making large steering inputs - which you can do at low speed (you simply cannot turn the bars as far, nor do you need to, at higher speed) the front brake will tend to make the front “tuck under” and you’ll get what a police motorcycle instructor described as a “low speed high side”… and probably a broken collarbone.

  3. You need to control the throttle and clutch quite accurately, and steer at the same time. By my count, your hands are doing three things. Why involve 'em in working a brake as well, when your right foot is dangling (all lonely and bored) doing nothing ?

  4. If you are shunted from behind at low speed, the bike will pivot and fall over if the front brake is on. The same police instructor says it remains stable and is pushed along if only the rear brake is on.

  5. Using the rear brake at low speed soon trains you to ride properly - feet up - which improves your motorcycling handling no end.

  6. Pragmatically - it works. All the GOOD riders tend to use rear brake only below about 10mph … I ain’t GOOD, but I’ll try to do as they do.

Does that make sense?

Hoddy
LONDON ADVANCED MOTORCYCLISTS

I’d posit that having a hard-and-fast rule about how you brake from any speed in any condition on any surface is pretty stupid, even if you’re operating in the same decade as the one in which the rule was conceived.

Yup that’s exactly what the article says, you have to read it to know that though :crazy:

Oh, I tried to hang around until the end, but didn’t manage it :slight_smile:

No one said it was going to be a quick lesson, however I
think that I learnt a lot from London Advanced Motorcyclists
and doing track days and ride-outs with the Ixion group over
several years.

but surely having a solid basis of skills to call upon in order to deal with any scenario is essential?

Yup covered in the article where it says the following…

If you MUST quote a fixed apportionment of effort - I’d say it is 85%:15% - which is in line with the way JAP 'bike designers set up the brakes.

But the truth is, situations will vary which is why we should forget 75%:25%. Motorcyclists need to learn to taper brake; to balance front and rear brakes in a sensitive, reactive fashion - not to follow an outdated mathematical tenet.

Interesting read. Waisted some time at work :laugh:

According to the article I am a good rider :smiley:

OP thanks for posting. Now can someone tell me if ABS on bike’s are as good as people boast about? I haven’t ridden a bike with ABS yet.

Thanks for taking the time to share that Mike. The main basis of the articles ‘seems’ to be about stopping from high speed to a relatively low speed. As I live in central London most of my commute is spent at low speed, tempered by engine braking and then back brake (for filtering, rolling up to traffic lights etc). Hence why my back brakes tend to get changed as often as my front ones.

When outside of London on rides in the countryside, I think I probably overuse engine braking and gear changing to slow down, then follow up with joint front and back brakes. Kind of get a kick out of never/ rarely having to apply my brake light, as it makes me feel I have judged the corner correctly and have approached it an appropriate speed, to then power out of. I don’t think there is much wrong with this, except that it means it slows my overall progress (the process of slowing from 80 to 40 will take me longer than it would you). Perhaps it is the difference between ‘touring style and racing style’?

It may also be the difference between what’s appropriate for newbies and what you can do when you are more experienced. I know for me at least this is definitely something I need to build my confidence in. Two experiences have shown me that my braking is not very advanced! One was some track based braking training - I was terrible. We would approach from about 750 metres away, going as fast as possible (much faster than Mod 1 DAS). A glove would then be dropped by one of a number of instructors and we would have to stop where he dropped it. I consistently braked too early and would end up c. 10 -20 metres in front of the glove. By the end of the session (had about 6 attempts), if I’m honest, I wasn’t significantly better at this - it needs a lot more practice, but appropriate places to do so are pretty limited. The second experience was test riding the Street Triple R - LOVED hitting the rev limiter (it flashes blue lights at you as some kind of reward for being a bit bad-ass!!), but it’s brakes scared the c**p out of me - they were soooo sensitive. Having almost done my first stoppie, I did the rest of the test ride with engine and back brakes, cos I was too scared of going over the handle bars. Have heard about one or two finger braking, but no sure how comfy I feel doing it (or how effective it would be on my current bikes!)

Anyway, you given me a lot to think about. Would be interesting to hear the experiences of other less experienced riders, to see if we’re doing much the same or whether I am really behind the curve. Think I could learn a lot. Will also look into the Machine Control Course - sounds interesting!

Agreed, it is about braking while staying in control.

And braking from high speed is when getting it right really is
most critical.

If you’re bimbling about at low speed with miles of stopping distance
you can drift to a halt in whatever way you feel comfortable.

Trouble is, one day, you will need to brake quickly and in control and
from a high speed.

Buy a 2014 KTM 1190 Adventure using lean angle data with ABS, apparently you can’t crash it :slight_smile:

I didn’t read the full article as I lost patience…sorry.

It felt like it was overcomplicating things and it really doesn’t need to be (in my humble opinion).

To start with I feel it’s best to keep things simple and as you get more proficient gradually make things more difficult to improve your skill.

Get familiar with your bike and how YOUR brakes perform on YOUR machine as every bike is different.

If a rider asked me how he/she could improve their braking skills I’d suggest practicing repeated stops somewhere away from traffic ideally.

Start at a slow speed and see for yourself how the rear brake alone slows you.

Try the front brake on it’s own at a slow speed and begin to get a feel for the weight transfer and grip on to the front tyre.

As your confidence grows you can add speed and do the same again.

Don’t jab at the brake it should be a progressive movement.

I also release the front brake more slowly than it’s applied so as not to upset the balance of the the chassis. Particularly important if you have a boingy front end:D

So… Emergency stop, back wheel in the air, fully on front brakes on wet road.

My Bendix are awesome.

Matt you’re a legend :smiley:

I used the rear brake a lot when I was learning… so much I ended up scoring the discs :pinch:

Haven’t changed it in a long time now… mainly use front unless I am just at very low speeds or it’s raining. Or I really need to stop (emergency)…

B’s advice is great and I too got bored with the article… A good point should not be lost in the details - I later found the bold parts and was enough with those

Ah Hoddy will be pleased he is sill thought provoking !!

If I may say the piece was intended to make you Think the whole idea behind advanced riding is to think about what you do not obey a set a dumb rules

Hoddy was a Founder Member of LAM although no longer a member still riding in London I may even point him at this thread

Dave

+1

Last time I saw this article on a forum (Ixion) it did just that (generated much thoughtful discussion)
However, that was a long time ago and dare I say it…
The article appears to be a little too long for the attention span of todays yoof many on LB :smiley: