Have the usual (for a ZZR) crack in the front mudguard and it needs the attentions of a plastic welder.
I don’t seem to be able to raise Mike at M9 Performance (hope all is well?), so does anyone know of another shop that may be able to tackle it?
powerhouse in southfleet do it 3 mins from blue water
ring jason 01474 834223
How about trying some of this stuff: Plastech.
Did wonders for some of my fairings…actually stronger than original.
I can confirm this, because the repairs I did managed to withstand crashing better than the original fairing…
When i mistakenly left my disk lock on my bike, i cracked the mudguard by the mounting bolt.
Simple solution and much cheaper than any of these plastic repair/polymer cement kit is to do this
:arrow:Take mudguard off
:arrow:roughen the inside surface of the plastic using some rough grit wet and dry paper
Here’s the neat bit
:arrow: Purchase yourself a cheap and cheerful soldering iron
:arrow: Reinforce the outside surface of your mudguard with gaffa tape, ensuring that the crack void is minimised by putting the surface in tension
:arrow: Neatly weld the inside surface of the crack void with the soldering iron. I can’t remember what the glass transition temperature/melting temperature of ABS plastic is, but the iron will certainly melt the plastic. Work the void until it’s fully enclosed by the melted plastic. Get an old plastic coat hanger or any non-brittle but tough plastic (polypropelene will do nicely) or high impact polystyrene and use that as the “weld” to reinforce the crack void. Ensure that the 2nd phase plastic adheres to the ABS - ideally plastics must be of the same type or at least of the same family to ensure correct mechanical mixing and provide the same mechanical properties
:arrow: Leave to set for 1 hour
:arrow: Remove gaffa tape reinforcement
:arrow: Get some paint from bikepaints on ebay (not exactly a colour match, but close enough for touch ups). Roughen the outside surface of the mudguard and prime. You can try respraying the whole mudguard if you want to get better results. Alternatively, if the position of the crack permits, you can stick a nice sticker on it; london bikers will do nicely… or if you’re me, alpinestars/arai/dunlop.
At the end of the day, it’s a cheap, free process if you have the equipment and i remember an issue of Bike magazine saying that plastic “welding” using this method, whilst unsighlty if done in certain places, proved to be the most effective since you’re allowing the polymer to melt and re-polymerise; effectively re-establishing that continuous chain.
I might be chatting bullshit here, but that’s what 3 years of being a materials engineer at lufbra playing about with plastics and metals does to you!
Results are barely noticable
Look by the O on the DUNLOP, if i didn’t bother going over with the touch up paint, the crack would have been barely noticable.
Wot he said ^^^^^^^^^^ used that method loads of times on old bikes late 70’s early 80’s used to work a treat, just take your time and you be fine
Sean at Predator Motorcycles next door to Essential Rubber does it apparently…
Thanks guys, that’s hugely useful.
Not sure I’m game to try it myself without some practice first! But thanks very much for the guide.
Another vote for Plastex here. I rebuilt a full FJ1200 fairing using this stuff. Works wonders and is very strong. Quite easy to use as well, but requires patience. Ended up respraying the fairings as well and they looked rather good too afterwards.