Used bike mileage guide

Hi guys, 

Currently shopping around for a bike and wondering what is considered to be a “safe zone” when it comes to mileage done on a bike here in the UK. 

Personally I wouldn’t purchase anything over 10,000kms - that’s around 6200miles but you guys may feel otherwise. 

Depending if the bike has service records and how well maintained it was then sure you can look at bikes with higher mileage.

Keen to hear everyones thoughts.

Personally, millage doesn’t mean anything to me, I would rather have a Clean bike with higher millage and full service history over a low miles bike with no history.

Service history with high mileage is not a problem usually.  But be thorough when checking the service history.  Spend time on the relevant bike specific forums, researching the bikes you are interested in.  Also check the dealer service history, then get onto bike forums and ask about those particular dealers.  I bought a great condition ZX-10R in July and althought it had full service history, I still got my mechanic to check it out, and he said it looked like the original spark plugs were still in it.  It’s a 2009 bike, and the plugs are difficult to get out.  Yet my mechanic lubricated the long HT lead/caps, so they’ll be easy to take out next time.

My only negative experience with a bike has been my 2013 Triumph Daytona 675, which had 18 warranty issues.  If you want specific details on that, PM me.

@Aceman Thanks for the info dude! I’m torn between which bike I want to get at the moment so I’m researching all the top 600’s and issues to look for within certain years of manufacture. 2008 - 2011 preferably, some great 600’s were made in this range. 

If you’re ok with it, I may grab your mechanics details at some stage when I’ve found a bike I’m sold on so he can check over? Sounds like he knows his stuff!  

They say you should buy on condition. There are also some upsides to buying higher mileage bike if it’s been serviced properly. It could have had a lot of parts replaced and been through a major service with valve clearances. Or have had the fork seals replaced rather than have them about to go. Plus if parts need replacing such as chain and sprockets you can use those as negotiating points. When I sold my old bike It think the only original parts were the frame and wheels. A lot of it was brand new despite having 40K on the clock.

I think you should make a selection then ask the members for advice.
Every bike has it’s weaknesses so once you’re set to something you like ask away surely some of us will dissect it to help make a decision.

@silveR6 My selection at this rate are as following: 

#1 - CBR600RR 2008 - 2011 - Reason being I had the 2006 version and this was fantastic, comfortable for me given I’m 6’4. 
#2 - Yamaha R6 - 2009 - This has always been my favourite 600 but I hear it doesn’t accommodate taller riders. I’ve sat on one before and made it look like a 250.
#3 - Kawasaki ZX6R - 2010 - Alot of great reviews
#4 - GSXR600 - 2008 - 2010 - Never really been a fan of Suzuki but it’s draw card is the price. Comfortable bike too. 

Jax you forgot Daytona 675 the best of the bunch
Good luck on trying to insure any of the above with a W1 postcode

@Wise your completely right which is why I’m moving further out

Sadly the 675 has never really appealed to me

#4 - GSXR600 - 2008 - 2010 - Never really been a fan of Suzuki but it's draw card is the price. Comfortable bike too.  JAX
You may find the GSXR 750 is cheaper to insure, same bike except engine and more torque so you don't have to be revvy with it.

If it was me I’d go for a Honda PC 50
A true fanny magnet

Service stamps mean very little, if it appears to have the power it left the factory with and there are no unusual knocking, banging or rattles you’re probably on a good’n. If it needs tyres, pads or whatever that’s the cost of motoring. Check out what a dealer will charge for a complete cycle of service schedules for an idea of running costs, even if you’re intending to service it yourself. Things that can and often do get missed on servicing include brake fluid, coolant, air filters, fuel filters, spark plugs, valve clearances even when the bike appears to have FSH.
When buying a used vehicle I always factor in a proper full service to be sure of a starting point, mainly because what I buy I tend to keep for several years.

If the wheels turn and the engine starts and runs okay, mileage is irrelevant.  I’ve had bikes with over 87K miles on them. All bikes I have bought have had over 25K on them and been in the large faultless.  Only one with low milage was a 7 year old Sprint RS with 2487 miles on it… barely run in.  Sold it with 36K on it, still totally tight and lovely to ride.

Thanks for the info team! 

Another thing,

All the bikes you mentioned are popular models … there are hundreds of them on the market on Ebay, Biketrader etc and it’s a buyers market at the moment.

I’d sniff out the “garage queens” amongst them, ie the one’s that are used as occasional toys by owners with a few bob who have serviced them correctly and have looked after them.

If all else adds up from the great advice above then you often find the owners have already bought their new toy and just want to move on… so they are more likely to accept a lower offer.

On the other hand watch out for the bikes that have been laid up for too long - they might have a low mileage but lack of use can bring other problems.

I once saw a bike that the owner had laid up for 3 years whilst he was abroad … really low mileage but when I felt around some of the gaskets had shriveled with lack of use/lubrication and it was weeping oil…seller knew this but was trying t pass it on when it needed an expensive strip down… grr

@JAX - Just sent you an PM aka Intercom message regarding my awful experience of owning a Daytona 675.

I should send him a pm of the brilliant 14years I had with my Daytona & the 91k miles I put on it

@Aceman - Just replied to you!

@Wise I’m sure everyone has their own experiences but the 675 has never appealed - not making the list. 

Kawasaki get my vote