Hi everyone,
thought I am going to treat my tyres with puncturesafe but I seem to have some odd tyre sizes as they are not listed in the manual. Anyone has any idea how much of the goo I need to squeeze into my tyres?
Front is 120/70 15"
Rear is 130/80 15"
Thanks a lot !
I tried Ultraseal once, i got a punture and the stuff did nothing apart from making a horrible mess as it oozed out and had to call the AA out to butt plug it.
My CBF600 had this stuff in, got a puncture and like Johnp’s experience the stuff just came outta the hole around the screw in the tyre! Ended up getting puncture repaired too. Useless IMHO.
I have used this in most bikes for years and wouldn’t be without it as it has saved me a lot of trouble.
As for quantity - I would go up to the next listed tyre size for the rear, and down one for the front. The reason for this is that too much on the front wheel can cause the wheel to become unbalanced, and too much in the rear does no harm at all.
There were some reports of the tyre valves being messed up by these somewhere…
I use Holts Tyre Weld - it’s a canister which can be carried. It doesn’t alter the wheel equilibrium.
Generally the canister works well as long as you don’t have punctures front and rear!
The problem with tyre weld is that unlike water based Ultraseal, it will stop a tyre every being properly repaired as it can’t be vulcanised once tyre weld is used. Ultraseal will only unbalance a wheel if far too much is put in the front wheel.
As for valves, I have never heard of it damaging or stopping a valve working if it has been installed correctly (you are meant blow through the valve with air before refitting the core. I also clean the valve with a cotton bud before fitting the core. I have seen it successfully stop a leaking valve seat though.
I have used UltraSeal and latterly PunctureSafe in the rear tyre of my ST13 Pan for about the last 4 years and 100k miles. Why only the rear?..I’ve never had a front wheel puncture so I don’t bother treating both tyres. The stuff does work but the key to it working is to ride the bike after the puncture occurs. This makes the sealant fill the hole and, by the flexing of the tyre whilst in use, the hole is sealed. My rear tyre was punctured while out on a run just as I stopped at a cafe for a break. I didn’t notice until I came out of the caff and the tyre was flat! I used a mates pump to inflate the tyre about half-pressure then rode to a nearby pertol station and topped up to normal running pressure. The tyre stayed inflated and I continued to use the tyre for another 5k miles with no problems. A word of caution, not all products are the same! Make sure you use only genuine UltraSeal (which I don’t think is available in UK any more) or PunctureSafe (the UK version of UltraSeal). Other so-called puncture sealants don’t work.
My last puncture was in the front tyre …
Sorry to pick holes but you’re wrong there. TyreWeld is also water soluable and easily washed off with water.
thanks for the tips about how much of the stuff goes into the tyres. I did in fact call the company today to find out the exact amount…turns out I need 8 units front (120/70/15) and 9 units rear (130/80/15).
Treated the rear tyre this evening…and planning of doing the front tomorrow.
just a quick question - can you squeeze the stuff into a completely flat tyre? I don’t have a paddock stand for the front unfortunately.
Yes. You will find the tyre will probably not go completely flat - at least my tyres never have.
As for Tyreweld you are right that there is water in it, but it can’t be washed off the inside of the tyre as it coats the inside with an elastic resin. This makes a legal safe permanent repair impossible. Ultraseal is designed specifically to remain water based even after application not prohibit a legal safe permanent repair as it can be simply hosed off.
Quote from Holts website…
“Tyreweld is a water based latex emulsion (milky white solution) which coats the inner if the tyre, locating and temporarily sealing the puncture and developing a protective latex film over the top. Tyreweld can be removed with soapy warm water, the tyre dried and then in accordance with British Standards the tyre buffed on a buffing wheel. This will roughen the surface to provide an adequate key to take the patch ensuring all residual dry latex will be removed and nothing will remain to react with the patch or adhesive.”
Interesting -especially as water doesn’t remove it from your hands.
I never had you down as a soap dodger;)
Seriously, I’ve had a few car tyres repaired successfully after using Tyreweld:)
That’s good to know as there are plenty of accounts online of tyre repairers refusing to work on Tyrewelded tyres.
Yes agreed, its a bit like the WD40 on chains debate.
If you look on the side of a tin of Tyreweld there are all kinds of information about it and even a helpline number from BritishTyre Council.
I think the myth is put about because tyre fitters dont like the mess involved 
Agree with you here. They don’t want a mess and hassle.
Thumbs up for Ultraseal. Used in both my RR and Courier work bikes for 5+ years.
Also tyre fitters are more likely to see the tyres where it didn’t work, rather than the tyres where it successfully stopped a small leak. It also takes business away from tyre fitters.
And Courier use is the only place I would suggest using it.
My story - had a new ZX12 and decided it would be a good idea to put the stuff in for continental touring - carefully measured out the correct amount of gunge for each size of tyre - first time at 100mph scared the s&^t out of me with a truly spectacular out of balance vibration shake from the front end - got the gunge taken out by my friendly local dealer (he laughing at me whilst he made me wash the horrible gunge of the tyres and rims) - cost me to take the wheels and tyres off and balance check - 100mph no vibration - never ever again will that stuff go in one of my tyres.
