I had the same thing happen to my K6 after I put a Micron full system and a K&N on it when I used the stock PCIII map.
It produced terrible results because I was then living at over 7000ft in elevation and once I downloaded the suggested map but adjusted to altitude, it purred. Custom mapping is the best way to go though, the downloaded map is just a temp fix.
Thanks for all the advice everyone…I managed to figure out how to fit the Power Commander and have now installed a temporary download map (cheers dannyboy).
I’ve not had a chance to ride the bike yet, but it starts up nicely now.
I had to bodge the connection of the PCIII to the throttle position sensor though…I know you shouldn’t bodge such an important electronic control, but I couldn’t find my soldering iron to sort the wiring properly…Will be back in there soon enough as I have to give the bike a full service.
Oh yeah…I fitted these Factory Pro beauties too…I know the look isn’t the point, but dang they look nice :w00t: Better than the Graves ones I had on my R1
Well when I got the PCIII it had a map on it which I saved, but overwrote with a download map because that was a little more related to the gear I have on my bike.
Anyway, the download map was running ok, but really fluffy on part throttle and off throttle.
So, I think sod it, let me try the map that was on the PCIII when I first bought it, even though it said it was for a Devil exhaust and I’m running a Micron.
Wow…
Smooth as silk…The power delivery feels so smooth and the power build is totally linear…No more flat spots.
I’m going to dyno the bike soon, but I think I’ve just saved a good £100+ on a custom tune. :w00t:
stuts, it’s not the same job. That’s like buying a Ford Escort, adding a turbo, some lowering springs and saying it does the same job as a Ferrari. Not even close. It’s a good mod, but it’s not the same as a good custom map. I speak from experience of both re-map and custom maps on various Suzuki’s.
Glad you got a good outcome though Afro! Bit of luck there me thinks!
I have the same problem with my CBR600F, K&N and Scorpion can. I took my bike to SBK and Rhalph, and it was running way too rich
I’ve put baffle back in and it’s cure it a bit, but I can still feel that it’s running too rich, and not as I wish it to be. Power commander might help, but it will be another costs which my missus will not tolerate at this moment.
whatever map you put in the PCIII you’ll never know what its doing unless you dyno it, it may FEEL more responsive and powerful but that’s also where it could be running too lean, so if you tried map after map and checked it on the dyno you’d go way above the cost of simply having it custom mapped in the first place !
For what is worth. I have a lot of popping down shifting on my 1000-K7-(Taylor made exhaust). Got a custom map done at SBK- running a strong 172bhp, Fuel mixture good, but still pop’s and bangs.
From the factory most motorcycles will come with a PAIR valve system on them. This is basically air valves that pull fresh air from your air box and through a bunch of hoses and fittings it feeds that fresh air into your exhaust ports on your cylinder head and sends it through your exhaust
There is unburned fuel that makes it through the combustion stroke, exits the cylinder head, and makes its way down the exhaust system to finally exit into the atmosphere. The PAIR valve system adds fresh O2 to the exhaust so that as the unburned fuel come into contact with the extremely hot catalytic converter, the additional fresh air will cool the exhaust and aerate the fuel for a more efficient burn.
If you have installed a full race system and have removed the cat, all this fresh air will do is
create the popping and back firing that throws those incredibly cool but damaging flames out of your exhaust. To eliminate this add the “smog block off plates”.
If you decide to have your bike dyno tuned then you should not run the PAIR valve system because as it adds oxygen to the exhaust. The dyno “sniffer” is picking up false readings from the additional O2 added after combustion. When it reads the extra O2 it thinks the bike is running lean and will compensate by adding fuel to the fuel map. Now you have a map that is much too fat (too much fuel) and the bike will run not as good as it should. The person that is tuning the bike will have to pinch these off every time you dyno the bike. To eliminate this add the smog block off plates.
[/quote]
Thanks for that, I will look into this, when you mentioned Damaging Flames, what sort of damage is being done to the bike.?
[/quote]
The bike will be fine so don’t worry, my R6 spits flames all the time, i was just going off on one