I put on a Micron pipe and a DNA air filter on my GSX-R 1000 K5 about a week or two ago. I’ve got a Power Commander as well, but haven’t put it on as I can’t afford to get the bike mapped just yet.
Anyway, the bike was running fine to start with and I noticed a healthy dollop of extra power as it is breathing more freely.
Then on Saturday I noticed it was quite hard to start and actually cut out whilst idling (from cold). When it warms up, it’s better but the power delivery is a lot fluffier than it was before (a few days literally).
Its weird but it seems the ECU has decided to over compensate somewhere in the fuelling.
Since putting the pipe on, I get a poppy noise at low revs and lots of pops when I shift down the box from high revs.
This would indicate running rich right?
Power is still as strong as before but the delivery has just become fluffy…The bike will need the clearances checked very soon though.
I know I need a custom map made
…But I was wondering if there was a reason the bike suddenly started running this way.
A bike specific power commander doesn’t need to be mapped, just plug ut in and it should help. But if you want the best from the bike it needs mapping properly.
Huh? (CB11RC) Yes, a PCIII will need a map loaded, it’s not a closed-loop system so it has no means to judge what settings to use. It needs to be instructed. By default it either won’t have a map installed, or if it’s second hand, it’ll have whatever the previous owner used (I know you’ve not got it installed yet Afro).
I can’t remember if the stock setup is a closed-loop system or not, i.e. if it adjusts the fuel-air ratio. I don’t think it is, so it’s probably just running too rich. If you’re popping, then you’re burning fuel in the exhaust, which clearly is a sign of too much fuel.
You could do well with a second opinion, but that’s just my experience from owning one. When you get a custom map for the PCIII, you’ll notice a day and night difference. I sure did. The fueling on my K5 was as smooth as a baby’s bum. Just as well with 171bhp and short gearing.
I’d get it looked at asap, or stick the stock exhaust back on mate.
If you’ve added a less restrictive air filter and zorst wouldn’t it be running leaner as you are getting more air in the system than standard? As Jay says, if you can’t get it set up just yet, I’d stick it back to stock for the time being.
That’s my thinking too… would be running lean if you’ve put a pipe and filter on, and being hard to start from cold seems to confirm that.The popping also points to it being lean - when the motor is on the overrun, there’s less pressure in the combustion chamber and not all the fuel gets burned - as the motor can now breathe better with the pipe and filter, there’s plenty of air in the exhaust to enable the unburnt fuel to ignite.Of course… I could be wrong (first time for everything ) but that’s how I understand things.Like the previous replies, I’d put it back to std at the mo cos if it’s lean it could hurt the motor (unlikely if you’re not caning the tits off it absolutely everywhere).
I fitted a Yoshi stubby tri oval to my old K5 but never had a PCIII added. Never had any issues with it and it made a glorious popping noise in third when backing off:D
I’d suggest just disconnecting the PCIII for now until you can get a map that suits.
i had same problem on a hyabusa.carbon cans,and a filter.it was hard to start from cold and had a stutter whan u opened the throttle+ it took its power from the fuel pump surply and poped fuses,up the fuse to 15 amp. it was all fitted when i bought it and felt quick.i had it set up on a dyno and it made the world of difference.it started fine and the engine felt like a turbine,very smooth and spun up much better.
Afro, if you have the PC then you can fit it yourself and on the CD there will be a number of maps for common exhaust and air filter combinations. It won’t replace the need to have a custom map done but will get you 70% of the way there.
If I remember correctly thr PC comes with a default map loaded that is better suited to aftermarket cans than stock even without doing the above.
European Model, Laser Hot Cam slip-on and Stock or aftermarket air filter
European Model, Yoshimura TRS slip-on exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter and Pin 8, from Gray ECU connector, disconnected to disable SET exhaust valve
European Model, Yoshimura full exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter and Pin 8, from Gray ECU connector, disconnected to disable SET exhaust valve
European Model, Micron Beta slip-on exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter and Pin 8, from Gray ECU connector, disconnected to disable SET exhaust valve
European Model, Micron Delta+ EEC approved slip-on exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter and Pin 8, from Gray ECU connector, disconnected to disable SET exhaust valve
European Model, Carbon Can Company slip-on exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter and Pin 8, from Gray ECU connector, disconnected to disable SET exhaust valve
European Model, Micron Serpent full exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter and Pin 8, from Gray ECU connector, disconnected to disable SET exhaust valve
European Model, Leo Vince EVO 2 Racing slip-on exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter and Pin 8, from Gray ECU connector, disconnected to disable SET exhaust valve
European Model, Arrow Competition full exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter and Pin 8, from Gray ECU connector, disconnected to disable SET exhaust valve
-Laser Works full exhaust,Stock or aftermarket air filter Pin 8, from Grey ECU connector, disconnected to disable SET exhaust valve
-European Model Suzuki/Yoshimura slip-on exhaust, retains S.E.T. valve, with baffle Stock or aftermarket filter
European model Akrapovic Evolution 2 full exhaust Stock or aftermarket air filter Pin 8, from Grey ECU connector, disconnected to disable SET exhaust valve
European Model, Arata full exhaust system Stock or aftermarket air filter Pin 8, from Grey ECU connector, disconnected to disable SET exhaust valve
Scorpion slip-on exhaust, with “road legal” baffle (WARNING - Do Not Use this map with baffle removed) Stock or aftermarket air filter Pin 8, from Grey ECU connector, disconnected to disable SET exhaust valve
Euroepan model-Harris “Moto GP style” slip-on exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter
Euroepan model-Harris “Moto GP style” slip-on exhaust with baffles, Stock or aftermarket air filter.
European Model- Suzuki/Yoshimura slip-on exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter
European Model- Arrow full racing Exhaust (54mm muffler and end can), Stock or aftermarket air filter
European model G-Force Slip-on exhaust and link pipe, Stock or aftermarket air filter, Pin 8, from Grey ECU connector, disconnected to disable SET exhaust valve
European model-MIVV full Exhaust with CE muffler (Db-Killer installed), Stock or aftermarket air filter
European model-MIVV full Exhaust with CE muffler (Db-Killer installed), Stock or aftermarket air filter
European model-MIVV full Racing Exhaust (Db-Killer removed), Stock or aftermarket air filter
European model-MIVV full Racing Exhaust (Db-Killer removed), Stock or aftermarket air filter
European Model-Leovine Full Racing Exhaust, Stock or Aftermarket Air Filter
European Model- Shark Full Racing Exhaust, Stock or aftermarket Air Filter
European model-MTC slip-on exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter, Pin 8, from Grey ECU connector, disconnected to disable SET exhaust valve
European model Akrapovic full exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter
European Model-Leo Vince full exhaust, with Db killer, Stock or Aftermarket Air Filter
European model, Racefit Mega slip-on exhaust, Stock or aftermarket air filter
Modern bikes run a “clean air system” … this shoves clean air into the system in order to pass type approval on emmisions … with the “clean air sytem” still in place and an after market exhaust system fitted, this will often cause popping on downrun. The popping itself should cause no harm. However, DannyBoy’s suggestion of putting a DynoJet premade map into the PC willhelp until you can get a custom map done.
I have a Power Commander and Velocity Stacks waiting to be put on the bike, but the PCIII install seems way more complicated than it was on the R1. There’s about 4 connectors, all the same size, but not marked to state which ones they mate too on the bike…Then you have to splice two wires together :pinch:
Plus, the install manual is no help…It shows a picture, BUT it’s in fuggin black and white :doze:
WTF!
I really don’t want to take it into a shop to fit…grrrr
) but that’s how I understand things.Like the previous replies, I’d put it back to std at the mo cos if it’s lean it could hurt the motor (unlikely if you’re not caning the tits off it absolutely everywhere).
