Forgot to mention that I have carefully used a bit of WD40 on each donought rivet type thing beforehand to help the freeing up process.
@cactus I know for sure its coming from the back though, as I have played around with different combos. Like I said, its strange, but it also happens when im at a standstill…
If it happens at standstill. Then what I do with a rubber mallet… I can’t see solving the problem.
If it’s happening at standstill… ABS fault?
I’d suggest you get it checked by an independent mechanic before you go to Yamaha
Really, even under warranty? What benefit will I get, Yamaha have a responsibility to fix it…
you’re right warranty should cover manufacturers faults, in an ideal world. but to establish you havent fucked up the bike in any way but its a manufacturers fault, you’ll have to prove it first. if its not a known documented fault they would try and put the blame on you if they can. not just yamaha btw.
Hmmm interesting, good point.
Thing is it isn’t really bad and I certainly haven’t done anything to the bike at all.
Think I found the issue…
The brake light kept sticking on, so I adjusted the two nuts on the connector, but it seems after checking today, that the bottom nut has loosened slightly.
I tightened it back up and on my journey home it’s completely stopped.
[quote] I'll try the hammer thing when I get home later --- me_groovy [/quote]spray some something on the spring pin that comes out of the switchThink I found the issue…
Redwez
The brake light kept sticking on, so I adjusted the two nuts on the connector, but it seems after checking today, that the bottom nut has loosened slightly.
I tightened it back up and on my journey home it’s completely stopped.
they don’t like the winter months
or better still fit a pressure switch
[quote] I'll try the hammer thing when I get home later --- me_groovy [/quote]Come to think of it - and I'm not sure if it is the rearset I have - but last time it was in the shop the mechanic mentioned that the foot brake is not returning to its correct position all the time and may overheat the disc. He put an o-ring around the pedal and the bar above it to make sure it returned to the correct position.Think I found the issue…
Redwez
The brake light kept sticking on, so I adjusted the two nuts on the connector, but it seems after checking today, that the bottom nut has loosened slightly.
I tightened it back up and on my journey home it’s completely stopped.
well i’m glad it was nothing worse.
come to think of it, when i owed the SV i had to regularly tighten up all the nuts every couple of weeks or so, if i didnt want to loose bits on the go. they do vibrate a shit load 
Loctite 243 is your friend
At £2.69 posted its a no brainer 
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121826873262?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I really don’t think that’s a good idea! Especially when it comes to fairings bolts!
Why not?
Loctite 243 is low strength, its maximum break away torque being something like 26 Nm although that is rarely achieved in practice.
edit:
Just checked Henkel’s Technical Data Sheet for Loctite 243 and…
Maximum break away torque on a stainless steel thread set is around 17 Nm and that applies to an initial setting torque of only 5 Nm!
So in order to keep the bolts in place you’ll make the plastic brittle. Clever.
Hows that?
Who mentioned anything about using it on plastics?
Just to be clear (cut and pasted from Henkel’s Technical Data Sheet) LOCTITE® 243™ is designed for the locking and sealing of threaded fasteners which require normal disassembly with standard hand tools. The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces and prevents loosening and leakage from shock and vibration.
Isn’t that what we’re talking about, securing metal based nuts, bolts and thread sets against vibration?
well done, keep cutting and pasting information from the glue company technical specs
anyway, suit yourself old man.
Thank you young lady.