the time is getting near where I will be taking the engine out of my ZX9 to see what kind of damage it’s sustained and what parts need replacing.
I’m pretty adept with a spanner, but can any old pro’s give me some pointers in setting up my work space before I get started? what might I not have thought of?
Not knowing what you have thought of, off the top of my head the absolute basics are …workshop manual, thoroughly read it before you start, you’ll have more of an idea of what you need for what you’re doing.digital camera to photograph each stage of dismantling, pencil and paper for notes (I make notes on ‘post its’ and stick them in the manual)a clean clear benchlots of rags, scrappers, fine emery cloth etc for parts cleaningcarb cleaner to clean up the really grimy partsWD40 to clean up the not so grimy partscontainers to dispose of the old oil and cleaning fluids
containers and labels for all the small parts, nuts, bolts, washers, bits and bobs (don’t throw anything away until the rebuild is complete)More time than you think, one hour jobs take two hours, two hour jobs take five hours, five hour jobs take a whole weekend.
When you come to remove the exhaust system If your exhaust header studs look rusty and seized then try and prep them with penetrating oil and give them a tap to try and free them up by dislodging rust. Applying a bit of heat will also be helpful if this is the case.
Don’t go and just stick a socket on and try and undo them - they will probably snap and then you will have to drill them out which isn’t very pleasant.
since the engine is very heavy and it’s attached to the frame there should be a sort of order in unscrewing all the bolts, this is to avoid an excessive weight in a part of the frame that may cause some damage
This has been explained to me by a mechanic so I do believe it…
if possible have someone to help they dont look much much but can be awkward when dropping out and heavy lumps .
make double sure youve undone all cables /pipes/bolts … ( leave top support bolts in until last (loose) ( well easiest to get to top support ))
take your time …
have sufficent space around you . sufficent storage for nuts bolts ( try to keep them in sections ( exhaust, mountings etc s rebuild is not a case of where does that bolt go )
good tools help … and make sure all are near to hand ( lay out on a newspaper or in a ice cream container ( main ones for kwaks in my exp are 8mm 10mm 12mm 14mm 17mm 19mm ( socket & spanner ) 4mm-8mm hex/allen keys … good flat screwdriver … small hammer for drifting bolts through mountings + punch … few rags but as a closed system oil is nt a huge issue until engine dismantle …unless casings damaged prior …
thanks guys, good point about laying out and labelling all the bolts. I’m sorted for the rest of it, gonna take my time over it certainly so not worried about how long it’s going to take
i’m not sure what part of the engine you are trying to get at, but if it’s the head, often you can take it off without removing the engine from the frame simply by pivoting it forwards on bottom rear bolt.
it’s the bottom end I want at first, as far as I can tell a con-rod cup exited via the oil pump. When it comes to taking the block out, I was thinking I could use a trolley jack and a couple of mates to lower it out?
If I’m not mistaken, which I often am , the B model zx9 engine sits in a cradle that run from the top of the frame to the bottom, this makes it a lot easier to drop the engine as you can use the rails to pivot the engine down to a set of jocky wheels (if you have them)
indeedy, this thing
got myself a compartment box for holding screws, some penetrating oil for taking it apart and a some copper gease for putting it back together again.