STRIPPING OUT AN ALARM IMMOBILISER

I’ve got this meta alarm immobiliser fitted to the kwak and I want to remove the f*cking thing.

It’s just an annoying, pointless parasitical leech sucking the power out of the battery and is the cause of starting problems.

Do I just trace the wiring into the loom and cut them where they bisect ignition witing etc and then just rejoin the wires with butt connectors (I can solder but butt connectors are more convenient).

Or is it more complicated than this - e.g. does the ecu need resetting etc?

Exactly what i done with the one on my old 9r traced them back from the alarm loom an colour coded the bike loom back up less than an hrs work .

Thanks mate - that sounds very encouraging. Will give this a go. :slight_smile:

You’re best off getting a wiring diagram of the particular alarm if you possibly can - there may be “traps” for the unwary, designed to stop it being defeated. All depends on the type and quality of the alarm of course.

Yeah - this thing is a meta.

As far as I’m concerned it’s just and evil squid that I want to rip off my bike and stamp on.

Can we please delete this thread how how to remove alarms? Dont want to hand out free candy…

Calm down mate :wink: - to remove the alarm you have to strip the fairing off - strip the rear panels off and cut into the loom - not exactly a practical proposition for someone nicking a bike off the street.

This information is freely available on just about every bike forum on the internet as a lot of people who have bought used bikes with these things on them hate them and just want to rip them out as soon as possible.

Thieves know all this sh1t anyway.

If thieves really want your bike an alarm immobiliser is useless anyway as they will just chuck it in the back of a van.

As said just trace cut out rejoin loom wires and youre done

Thanks fellas - the thing is out - taped loom back up - bike just started on the button - thank f*ck.

I hate these things - they are just a liability - they drain and can eventually kill the battery and if they malfunction/die like this one did can end up stranding you.

If you say so :-). I actually fitted an alarm to my brand new bike. Mind you, I also carry everything I’d need to diagnose and fix it if it went wrong on the move, and I’d be able to bypass it easily if I needed to.

Why did I fit an alarm? Well, it makes a beeping noise if someone touches the bike too violently, and it has an LED light that flashes every couple of seconds. Do I think it’s going to stop it from being stolen if someone wants it? No - I have an Almax chain for that, and insurance for if someone is walking around with a portable angle grinder and cuts the chain. But my hope is that the visible alarm will make the thief steal the next bike along instead of mine. Sorry - it’s a jungle out there.

-simon

Yeah - I see your point - my problem is that it’s an old alarm fitted to an old bike - it was basically dying/dead and causing all sorts of problems.

On the whole I like to keep the bike as simple as possible - alarms, heated grips etc for me are just stuff that drains batteries and cause problems.

Alarmed disk lock does all that, and doesn’t immobilise your bike if it feels like having a bad day…

Good call to get rid of an old alarm/immobiliser. These things seem to work well for a few years and then go ape sh*t on you.

I use an Oxford Boss alarmed disk lock rather than the manufacturers built in immobiliser as I don’t trust the effing thing not to let me down in the boondocks when it’s cold and hissing down.

Yep - I’m so pleased it’s off the bike - it was like some horrible alien parasite with it’s tentacles choking the bikes electrics.

Was always wondering whether the bike would start or not - either because the immobiliser had drained the battery or instead had malfunctioned and was locked into immobilise mode - not a nice feeling at 2.00 am in the morning when you are miles from home.