Sprockets!

Im thinkin of makin my 6 accelerate quicker. What do i need, sprocket wise?

Whos the best? Where do i get them? Is it worth it?

Discuss

This has been the topic of a recent thread elsewhere. Myself and many others here have done it, and the summary would be:

Pros:

  • Loads more kick, feels like more power
  • Revs quicker, meaning quicker acceleration

Cons:

  • Your speedo will over-read by a tiny amount

What-to-do:

  • The common thing is a -1 tooth sprocket on the front (engine), but if you’re feeling like you want a mad bike that will take on the best of bikes up to 150mph then go for -1 on the front and +2 on the rear.

Even better is to combined these two new sprockets with a new chain, in a 520 format, which is lighter than your stock chain, meaning you lose less power through rotational inertia and it will again accelerate quicker. I did this to my 750 and never looked back. You can also get coloured chains to complement the nice looking sprockets (Renthal or Stealth are best brands here, IMO) so you get a nice bling upgrade as well. Chain wise, I’d recommend AFAM, or DID.

Speak to bikehps.com or crescent-suzuki.com, about £130 for the whole kit, or £30-40 for just sprockets. Whether you go for just -1f or -1f+2r, you won’t lose ridability, it’s just relatively cheap fun, but be prepared for power wheelies at first. Go on, do it! -1+2 is best

Hi

Jay i know you stated you went -1 +2 on your past 750 but i like the top end rush! nothing like a 750 on full chat!!!

If i go -1 on the front how much top speed will i lose mate?

I only went -1f not any more. I didn’t lose anything noticable on the top, and the rush is still the same. You can’t top out at any UK circuits anyhow, and how often do you plan on doing 180mph on the roads?

Hi Jay!..is this the same theory no matter the make or engine size of your bike?

Yes, it’s pretty much the same relative result regardless of engine size, format, etc. Though when you’re talking about gearing at race-level, then there’s a more exact science to it, but for road riding, these general changes seem to work for everybody, though perhaps on Single or V-Twin engine formats things might be slightly different due to their lower rev-ranges, but I’m not too sure, just making an observation when I changed the gearing on my single-cylinder DRZ. It didn’t seem to benefit as much as sports bikes.