Sprocket Conversion

Heard from some guys here that if you go -1 tooth on front and +2 on rear it improves performance ? Anyone of you ever done this?

got that set up on my ZX7R, but dosnt suit everyone/ every bike… can make throttle response/acceleration very aggressive… what do you ride?

As Matt says, it varies from bike to bike, though typically in the past I’ve always fitted a tooth less front sprocket to my bikes, and that’s been enough to get a significant extra ‘woosh’ factor out of the bike. I’ve just bought a conversion kit for the K5 (see link below).

The way it works is, you’re altering the gearing, making it shorter, so the engine can spin up quicker and the end result is quicker acceleration. It’ll feel like more power, and most likely, the cheapest performance booster you can do with a bike. The downside is that it reduces your top-speed, though that’s neither here nor there with modern bikes, how often to you top out? I’ve done it once on my K4 750, and never on my K5 1000. Losing 10/15mph off your true speed (not speedo speed) isn’t going to limit your fun, quite the opposite, you’ll be laughing your head off at the acceleration you’ve gained

Another downside is that you’ve changed the gearing, so your speedo will over-read, adding more miles to your bike than you’ve done, but not many, a few percent. Same for current speed, you might be doing 90/95mph when reading 100mph (these are guestimates, it depends on the gearing change you go for).


…unless your on something like a bandit, older sv or prilla rs which have a cabledriven speedo off of the front wheel

i have -1 +10 on my gixxer 1000 and its mental. not the best for normal riding but better for stunts.

My mate has done this on a 1999 R1 in a bid to keep up with my R1, it works, up to about 150mph at that point the 99 R1 runs out of puff. Wheelies though, a bit too much, spend most of the time trying to keep the front wheel down.

You’ll be needing one of these

PDQ sell a speedo corrector for £99 that will correct your electronic speeedo’s gearbox driven signal - caused by changing the gearing. There is a good explanation & step by step write up here http://www.gadgetjq.com/yb.htm

got -1 and +1 on me R6 and found it to be much more responsive especially as I’m usually chasing 2 R1’s! as for the speedo doesn’t seem to have made it too innacurate from what I can tell

will say however that I went for the DID 520 race chain conversion which, although expensive, has so far done about 3500 miles inc 7 trackdays and hasn’t needed adjusting yet!

worth every penny, looks good to

I have to say, after running -1/+1 on the gixxer for a bit now, I think it’s too extreme for the road, the torque is immense, it just spins up or wheelies everywhere. -1 on the front sprocket would have been enough, for sure. The more powerful the bike, the less extreme the gearing needs to be.

Oh to be a bike designer…

Just think of a bike gear box with 2 or 3 gear ranges to save changing C&S to make a wheelie monster/top end monster and instantly switchable engine maps gimme a job please Honda

Apparently certain softdrinks have found to have a magical properties for example; If you down one seven up before riding it will help you wheelie easier…