http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
has anybody seen this website? What are peoples views???
Yes i had seen this before and to be honest i can understand his views.
Lets put it this way, when you buy a brand new car these days and in fact in the last 10 years you have not needed to “run it in” You just jump in and drive it. The same technology is applied to motorcycle engines and yet the manufacturer insists we do “run it in”. Ok so the oil needs changing after 500-600 miles but that we can’t help seeing as they put it in there in the first place.
I have owned a few brand new bikes in my time and my running in period tends to be about as much time as it takes to get the engine warm and tyres warm enough… My GSXR K5 was about 10 miles old before it was opened up properly, my FZ1 was a similar amount of time before it was “tested” up the A3 and the Ducati managed to make it from Ayelsbury to High Wycombe in the rain and was then unleashed down the A404 in the belting down rain.
I have not had any issues with any of these bikes and have found that they “loosen up” more by doing so.
Now obviously this is not recommended by the manufacturers and i would suggest you decide for yourself on the best way to run your new bike in, it is only 500 miles:P But for me i will continue to use the same way i have for my past 3 bikes and enjoy the bike from the word go.
Currently running my bike in via this method. 
I may have done triple figures on the way home from the dealership. 
I’m not entirely convinced that different methods of running in will make a huge difference as it’s more than likely that the guy who PDI’d your bike took it out for a roadtest and thrashed the nuts off it!
Either way I’m with the ‘abuse it from new’ school of thought. It seems to work for me!
What is written on this tuner’s web-site makes engineering sense, but he doesn’t actually suggest thrashing it like a new bike, at all…what he says is that full throttle should be used, preferable between bends, to load and unload the new engine, and wear the rings in whilst there are still honing markes on the bores.
I’ve just bought a new bike, and I used these principles to run in my engine, i.e. full throttle openings to force the rings hard against the honed bores. However, and I must stress this, only rev your engine up to the recommended maximum by the manufacturer. The reason for this is that the bearings also have to be bedded in. And also don’t forget, there is only about a 25 mile window to maximise the efficiency of this, so let the engine warm up for a few minutes at the dealers, ride it gently for 2 or 3 miles to your nearest twisties, then load it up, remembering to relieve it, too. 
I don’t know the long-term effects of this method yet, only time will tell, but after 3,800 miles, all seems to be working well.
Enjoy your new bike.
I’d want to get a few second opinions off of people who know a sh1t load about engines before I followed this guys method - although I can see what he’s getting at.Until then i’d just follow the advice in the manual.
My bikes have all been used anyway - and I’d hate to think that they were thrashed by some mentalist from 0 miles - especially as I’m the guy picking the bike up 10-15k down the line and will experience any engine issues that emerge when I start piling the extra miles on.
The point here is that it shouldn’t be thrashed, but ridden under full load, and if you read the manufacturer’s manual, they actually say this (mine did), but not continuously. The throttle should be fully open upto maximum permissible revs, then closed, to allow internal parts to cool for a few seconds, then repeat.
Yep, I get the picture - I guess that conversly being too gentle with the engine during the run in period will be detrimental as the engine will not ‘bed-in’ properly.
Engines are as much an art as a science. You can’t often predict how good an engine is going to be. Some are more finely balanced than others by nature and thus more liable to blow.The whole point about tuning an engine is that you balance the risk of performance against the risk of it blowing up. In fact, if you listen to Phil Seton, he will say that the best race-tuned engine is one that blows up as you literally cross the finishing line: the ‘perfect tune’. I.e. you get the best out of the engine within the time allotted. Sometimes engines blow up the minute they have been tuned, simply because its that kind of engine (a bit of PMT if you like - scientifically explainable - but relatively unpredictable and annoying nonetheless).
For a bike where you want to get performance out of it, the major race teams cane them hard the minute they are out of the box. Especially stock series racers. Why? Two reasons
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They really dont have time to go and buy an engine when it’s **** itself 300 miles in (consider how many laps of a circuit that is and how little you can do to stock engines)
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They need to know whether it’s a good engine ASAP so that they can get the rest of the bike together in time for the rider to test it (usually the dispatch time from the factory is so long that it leaves the rider with no test time or missing the first race of the season - Peter Hickman had that problem this year).
Road bikes are really not tuned in the same way as racebikes - I know this is pretty obvious, but its really important for a road bike that you have reliability. You really dont want to be sacrificing a lot of reliability for performance that you wont need (and in my opinion, probably shouldnt really be asking for on the road). All modern bikes should perform “well enough” on the road and tuning should not be necessary.Just ride it according to the above. If you want it to be very reliable and arent worried about performance, stick to the e.g. 3000 miles below a certain rev limit. If you want to test it, do what you like. But also note that if its a race-type of engine (like my ZX10 instead of my KTM LC4), then it could also blow up if youre ‘careful’ with it… Having said that, Ive only had an issue with the LC4 (the fuelling needle broke), the Zx10 has been good as gold and Im on 26,000 miles from new 
Absolutely ppg - whatever method allows me to get 100k out of an engine with no major issues.
As you say, race engines are a different ball game.
Sage advice from the tarmac surfer!
Can’t say I’ve run my new bikes in, though I did go easier with the current one. Perhaps I’m getting old!
Ive decide to have my bike delivered to a dyno center and get them to run it in on a dyno from 0miles… Can any one recommend a dyno center who can do this???
Well Im not the expert, I just listen to the experts. I also listen to people revving their engines for their friends while the bike’s in neutral by bouncing it off the limiter.
I wonder why the limiter is there… to change gear? hmmmmm…
Sorry if I sound ranty. I know of a couple of people who have complained that engines have blown up. Its the reason I wont let Mark do engine ‘work’ (although he is more than capable - between us we rebuild our own engines - more him of course). At least with the exhausts he knows it can’t really go wrong. People have certain expectations based on things they dont really understand and it really gets my goat when they rant at someone like Phil or Mark, who really deserve respect for what they do.
Id be interested to hear if you find someone willing to do this for you.
Unlikely, as I asked about this myself.
Although you talk about race engines, this is more about method of bedding the engine in, rather than tuning it. From my engineering knowledge, it makes good sense, and it’s done without thrashing it.
No point in revving an unloaded engine, as it will only glaze the bores rather than wear the rings to them.
+1 on finding someone to do it - the risk is far too great (had several blow up on the dyno we use on the first run)
And I wasnt contradicting you, dude, merely highlighting the fragility of engines and the importance of being aware and being prepared before you do anything…!
You could always take it to a race team that build 09 R1s.
I don’t see why there would be a problem…When you take your bike to a dyno centre, you accept liability for the fact that your engine may go bang.
Flight try HM Racing in Orpington, Kent or PDQ, in Maidenhead.
Ofcourse you’ll still need to run in your suspension and brakes after putting the bike on the dyno, but you already knew that 
Going Ohlins so not really bothered. Just want to make sure the engine is putting out the optimum power…
Cool man…When you get the bike we head to the Nürbergring 
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Cool man…When you get the bike we head to the Nürbergring
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If you genuinely serious , yes… Lets head over to Germany…