Well yesterday cost me a lot more than I expected. I had a puncher repair last Monday and Sod’s law had another puncher 7 days later. I went back to fwr to repair it then decided ill changed the tyre as it wasnt going to last much longer. Bob comes back in with my sprocket carrier and shows me my sprocket has chunks of teeth missing!
It was fairly new when I bought the bike so I’m gutted these only last 6,000 miles so I’ve paid for new chain and sprockets
Never understood why people would fit alloy sprockets? Granted Aluminium can be surfaced hardened, but ultimately steel is stronger, and has a better resistance to the mechanical stress that it would be under as a sprocket.
Ok you may save a few grams but it is really worth it on a road bike?
Steel sprockets always the best on a road bike. I also found that using a genuine front sprocket it always best as they come with the rubber noise damper moulded on the inside. Mind you I always stick to genuine sprockets.
16K miles commuting on the SV still with original
chain and sprockets and still going strong and I don’t
need to practice but can’t resist ocasional wheelies
:w00t:
i run Talon sprockets on mine (that was what we used to supply for the milles when i was at southern cross) and i average 20k miles out of my chains and sprockets.
i prefer to run steel when i can, but sometimes the size of sprocket i want to run dictates an ally one.
@kevsta the sprocket weight difference on my OZ wheels was 3/4 of a kilo (thats a **** load of unsprung weight)
@KTM martin the super sprox sprockets are the biggest load of wank i have ever seen. every one i have fitted for a customer is usually HEAVIER than the OE steel ones!