The Honda has been SORN and has been sitting in the stable for a couple weeks now, where it will remain until around April so I want to do something about the fuel and tank.
Plan A is to add a stabiliser to prevent any stale fuel clogging the fuel system and to fill the tank to the brim to prevent any rust forming inside the tank. So I’m looking for some tried and tested recommendations for a suitable fuel stabiliser, something you’ve actually used and that works rather than something you’ve heard of.
art, did you add the stabiliser in the end? i`ve brimmed mine up with petrol but not added stabilizer. i looked on a few other sites about this and it was about 50-50 weather you actually need it, so i dont know. just got my fingers crossed.
Have you also drained the carbs, fuel pump, filter etc?
And try to keep both wheels off the ground to prevent any flat spots on the tyres…
You’ve probably already done all that though. I don’t know about fuel stabiliser I’m afraid! But if I was laying up my bone I’d just brim it with petrol and leave it at that…
Left my bike once for 7 months in the garage while I went travelling. Kept the rear tyre off the ground, tank brim full and a 1W solar trickle charger to keep the battery going. When I came back, all was well except that the battery only had enough juice to keep the alarm and immobiliser active but not enough to start the engine. However, I charged it with a mains charger and it was fine for almost a year afterwards…
No fuel stabiliser, just filled the tank and drained the carb.
Both wheels are off the cold concrete floor, balancing on centre stand and timber block.
Was advised to renew the engine oil but I skipped on that since its less than 500 miles since the last change.
Placed a piece of grease proof paper between the pads and disk, to prevent the pads/disks seizing.
Oh yeah that’s another one I forgot about… I’ve been told you should get a screwdriver in the brakes and push the pistons right back into the calipers as far as you can, so that the metal isn’t exposed and they’re less likely to corrode or seize up in their seals. Not sure about that one though, perhaps someone can advise?
Would probably be worth doing a fresh oil change when it comes out of hibernation… any bits of swarf or silt will have sunk to the bottom of the sump so it might be nice to get that all drained out first…?
I’ve heard it’s bad to run the engine for a few minutes and then leave, something about condensation - I can’t remember the exact reason why, maybe someone else has heard this and can explain.
I take battery out for winter (no alarm fitted so no problem) - I have the tanks both almost empty - idea being petrol attracts water so less petrol less water attracted - first ride I go straight to petrol station and fill up with fresh petrol - I put the sports bike on its stands but for the length of time they are idle not sure that’s a big deal. Pan is on its centre stand. Both under wraps in the garage and parked up after being run. Come spring around Jan 2nd hopefully batteries go no chargers - though usually they don’t need much as storing em indoors in dry warm cupboard seems to be good for em. Never do anything with brakes or carbs (when I had older pan).
just to chuck another one in…i heard that draining the carbs causes the hoses to dry out and crack. lol. all good stuff no doubt but as mentioned above its not siberia and its only a few weeks/months anyway.
mines in the shed with full tank of fuel on an optimate, fairing off, wheels out but thats just for ease to change pads n overhaul calipers, also get the drill onto forks for polishing job done
Everyone will hibernate bikes their way and have their own theories
@ Ross - All those cold starts and hardly allowing the engine to warm up are, as Gavin/Jaime pointed out, not good.
@ Conrad - Try the grease proof paper trick, the lad down the road uses a spent McD cheeseburger wrapper.
@ Motopup - the batteries snuggled up in a cardboard box next to the tortoise, separate boxes their not that close, I check the voltage every month or so and charge it at 300Ma as necessary, the battery not the tortoise.
@ Jaime - I recommend Laphroaig.
@ Tim - I’ll chance the fuel pipe, replacing a perished pipe is easier than stripping down clogged/gummed up carbs.
The Honda will be in hibernation until April 2014 now. Although I’m not sure why I’m fussing so much over the hibernation, back in the day I left the old Norton in the back yard without even so much as a cover for 18 months. If I remember correctly it was a question of charge the battery, check the oil level and a little fettle with the carbs and she roared into life on about the 4th or 5th kick. Possibly due to the combination of a low tech electrical system and high tech Boyer electronic ignition.
