Where can i buy a kit so i can plug in mobile phones, gps etc on my bike via a cigarette lighter socket direct from the battery.
Nice one Weaver, i’ll give you a shout if i don’t here from you 
Hi NJS,
I’m an autospark with a trade account at Maccess, I can pick one of these up for a couple of quid.
I would then attach it direct to your battery, (waterproof fused of course) and hey presto, power for all, you can get multiway ciggy sockets but you don’t want to overload your battery.
I can also switch these via ignition relays to stop draining with engine off.
Anything really mate, Xenon HID kits, trackers, Comms equipment, handfree kits, alarms, bike camera systems, Laser Jammers, reversing sensors 
Give me a shout,
Below is a brochure and video for our Laser Jammers
http://www.ifitstuff.com/public_html/movie/SEMA.wmv
Wig
Attachments
yeh, it’s not rocket science to be honest, but it’s making sure it’s safe, if it’s not fused and something shorts out, you’ll have a warm arse as your battery implodes under your bottom then spills acid over your frame!
I might be able to make up a simple loom for you guys if you like, with moistureproof fuses soldered inline?
Keep it safe 
Weaver, or anyone, I’m available on PM for any 12v questions if he gets stuck.
I appreciate there is another auto-spark on here, don’t want to tread on any toes?
Wig
Top notch guys n gals, thanks
Don,t go direct to the battery far to dangerous. Link to on to a switched live from the fuse box. if it’s your GSXR Orange with Green tracer which is a 10amp fused switch live and on Suzuki Black with white tracer is always earth!
why is going to the battery dangerous exactly?
Going to the battery is the easiest way for someone who is not familiar with electrics, it saves splicing into wires and damaging looms. Besides, he did say he wanted it direct to the battery.
If it’s fused it’s as safe as houses.
In my opinion, when installing an external ignition controlled cigar power outlet it must be isolated from the ignition by a relay.
If it was wired to the bikes ignition feed and you were to plug something into the cigar lighter that had it’s own voltage near 12volts, it would turn on the ignition!!
A phone or Nav should be ok, as they operate normally around 4-8volts.
If you went camping and had a rechargable torch that ran on a 12v internal battery, as soon as you plugged it in to charge, then tried to turn the ignition off, it would stay on! Simply because the torches battery could be feeding back 12v into the bikes wiring, Unless it had diodes in its circuity to prevent this,(not all battery devices do), or a diode was fitted on the ignition supply. Even still, I don’t like the idea of running charging circuits direct to ignition feeds.
If I was to wire an ignition switched cigar lighter on my bike I would take a fused 10amp supply from the battery, run it to pin 30 of a standard 12v SPDT relay, run 86 to chassis, run 85 to the ignition orange/green via a 1amp fused supply and run 87 to the cigar lighter 12v input (centre pin) , then ground the outer side of the lighter socket to chassis or battery.
I’m not saying you’re wrong as you do a lot more bikes than I do, I was just answering his original query in a general way.
Anyway, differences aside, let me know if you are interested in a new bike tracking system, I have some very, very small GSM/GPS devices with bult in RFID that can be switched on/off by SMSing the device, this means, when GPS fails, (bike in back of van) you can locate it to a cellsite and then find it within the cell via RFID which will work when GPS won’t,
good to chat,
Wig
Actually it’s an in joke between Neil and I to do with flat batteries. Any accessory fitted to a bike should really be on a switch live for the simple reason that it could be left on and you could be left flat!
Wig, i had some probs on my bike when i fitted my PC III,bike would’nt start when fitted, turned out i did,nt have enough charge in the battery, Ooooooops !!!
well that makes sense, it’s just that looked to be a sweeping statement that could scare a lot of people.
Anyway, yes if you have it wired to the battery direct and left a device plugged in, it would eventually deplete your battery.
In the case of a phone or tomtom, this could take weeks though.
Wig
well never one not to jump on the free advice bandwagon, any thoughts on the power supply for an autocom fitted to an r1100rt? at the moment its directly “trapped” under the fused side of a fuse blade as described on a BMW website, but I’m not so happy with that idea! I thought about stipping back some insulation and soldering direct to a switched/fused wire then taping over for insulation.
wigetta,sparky i concer
always best to avoid drawing current from ignition wiring on bikes, or anything else, there is a reason those wires are the thickness they are, not meant for lots of aditional loads, always take power from the battery as stated and use the ignition feed to turn it on and off via a relay, cuts out any backfeed problems and stops and of the original wiring being overloaded, and always fuse the feed form the battery and the feed from the ignition wiring to the relay with a lower rated fuse than the one that is supplying anything else on that wiring
init
Aint your bike got summat already to do this? wot i mean is my old slabside and me gsx 1100 f had spare bit in fusebox attach + 1 side and - side of the fuses.
Me m8s do this with cigarette lighter and secure the lighter under the seat, he uses it to wach his dvd player when touring, lol.
‘trapping’ from what I understand is where you bare a wire, take out a fuse and then poke the wire underneath the fuse blade.
This is like plugging an unfused 12v kettle into your cars ecu feeds.
Not to be done! 
There are things that will work and there are things that are disasters waiting to happen.
These bodges will work, of course. But Kenny, if your autocom developed a fault and overloaded the circuit that it was ‘trapped’ onto, it would blow the fuse it was trapped underneath, this could be your fuel pump feed or, in the case of a BMW, an ABS feed, you would lose that curcuit.
I am not into scaremogery. A bike needs to be more safe than a car.
I have ways of making any aftermarket device as safe as houses.
As for that trapped feed, remove it tomorrow morning!
Wig
thank god someone else see’s what I’m trying to say
Power on bikes is critical, when dealing with cigar lighter outputs they should be shielded from the worst eventuality.
Wig
Wig,
If ya can get hold of water proof power outlet for a cigar lighter type plug, I would be interested. I have put a rely in so autocomm and hand warmers are only on with ingition, earlier thread on here shows how.
I occasionally have flattened battery nothing to do with hitting kill swithc and noticing I assure you and this type of adapter would make jump starting the bike a lot easier.
Dan
good plan, but cigar lighter sockets cant handle the current needed for a jump start, it will get very hot and so would the wiring to it, the starter takes a heavy load, which is why it has thicker cable going to it
a better thing to use is a mini “anderson” connector, this would handle the current easily and will be easy to attach the right size cable to (same thickness cable as used on battery leads or slighty thicker)
however you could use the cigar socket for trickle charging from something like an optimate, but i think these come with a fly lead that you attach to the battery anyway
hope that helps