SORRY MY MISTAKE I DIDN’T MEAN A DE RESTRICTOR I MEANT A TIMING RETARD ELIMINATOR, IT OVERIDES THE RETARDATION IN THE LOWER GEARS WHICH RELEASES SOME TORQUE AND ALLOWS THE ENGINE TO DRIVE BETTER. i DID IT TO MY OLD SV AND IT MADE A WORLD OF DIFFERENCE.
I PAID £25 FOR MINE OFF EBAY
ooo that sounds good must have a look into that… I’m more worried about how my engine is being looked after rather than that extra bite though…
Mind the knackers. 
you keep away from me with that vice young man!
Can be done…for a fee…ooooh, its gonna cost ya… 
anything.
as long as it’s not monetary.
I’d consider one hog and three bushels of potatos, but I don’t know what a bushel is…
The truth is, unless your engine (due to higher compression) requires higher octane fuel all you are doing is wasting your money by buying it when it’s not needed.
Your bikes manual will say what kind of fuel is required and you should stick to that.
Usually this means just the cheapest regular unleaded, which already exceeds the specification in most cases. All these claims of better power, cleaner engine, more fuel efficiency, less flies on your visor, shines yer shoes etc. are just petrol company propaganda to make more money off of you.
Listen to Jay, he is right. Do some research on the net if you don’t believe me. And make sure to check www.petrolprices.com about where you can get the cheapest juice. It adds up over time.
it certainly does… my manual says 98 ron so I guess I’ll stick to that.
thanks for the advice guys.
Toby… step away from the vice… put the vice down…
FROM WHAT I HAVE READ ABOUT ALL THIS THESE NEW UNLEADED FUELS DO VERY LITTLE IN THE PROTECTION STAKES UNLESS YOU ARE STICKING IT IN A RACE BIKE (BUT THEY DON’T USE IT ANYWAY!!)
YOU WILL DO MORE TO PROTECT YOUR ENGINE BY CHANGING THE OIL EVERY 3 TO 4 THOUSAND MILES
when you remap with a PCIII you can eliminate it too right (planned mod so not sure the de-restrictor is worthwhile). is it easy to fit?
if you do the derestrictor route, do you need to use the higher ron fuel (cars have the knock sensor that retards the timing for rubbish fuel, bikes dont have 'em). not sure how much the mod will make? did RiDE say anything about that?
fyi in case this aint clear, the engine only needs enough RON so that it doesn’t ping (autoignite). after that its just inhibiting the combustability of the fuel so will actually leave more cack in your engine from unburnt fuel than the alleged cleaning properties benefit it
If your bike aint set up for high ron, its worse. oh, and in winter the petrol’s colder so less combustable, so higher ron will make the situ worse, not better. my understanding of it anyway
Stefan’s right, a non-tuned engine (principly, higher compression) won’t notice the difference. I’m surprised the CBF requires 98 Ron. That must cause some trouble when at 95-ron only pumps? Also, I wouldn’t touch a TRE, an ECU re-map would be a better route for a better power & torque delivery.
YEAH I AGREE WITH YA THERE JAY, I JUST USED THE TRE TO DEMONSTRATE WHAT A WASTE OF MONEY ALL THESE “NEW FANGLED FUELS” ARE. MY SV RAN BETTER WITH BOG STANDARD FUEL.
Flyby…did you notice your caps lock is stuck on…?
I don’t doubt that Charlie, but most of us ride 600-1000’s (I’d guess and say 600’s are the majority) so it makes less of a difference, if any at all. I’m no expert though so any guru should post up their opinion…
were you sniffing the petrol, or putting it in the scoot 
Choice of petrol station seems to have an effect too. There is a cheap petrol station near me but when I have resorted to going there my bikes and cars have never run smoothly (I think their tanks might be contaminated). There are other stations that are as cheap, but not as close and so I use them whenever possible - plus they are biker friendly
I feel there is some truth in their benefits and having run Optimax for nearly 3 years. I can say from my experience that on the odd occasion I have had no choice but to stick the standard 95 Octane in there is a slight difference in both fuel economy and performance. Like when the Fuel depot blew up I couldnt get any for a couple of weeks 
Noticed some changes albeit only small.
When I had my car tinkered with, Decat, remap, 9L intercooler, Custom stainless exhaust etc. etc. the tuners advised I run it on Higher Octane fuel, you know the ones, BP Ultimate or optimax only to achieve the full benefits of the tuning work.
The bike just gets the standard 95 Octane however I put a tank full in every now and then expecting it to help clean off any Carbon deposits that may build up over time.
Car = Converted
Bike = Jury is out 
on a standard bike you are wasting your money with any thing over 95ron,when i had my r1 on tuned i was told to use super plus only.
as the bike my pink abit when it gets hot.
i put the shell 98,and they tesco’s 99 is it and the sv650 run like crap,uses more petrol,it has a bigbore kit and cams,so it runs really well on 97,and ok on 95ron.
if you want more bhp put octane booster in the tank as it keeps the injectors or carbs clean at the same time.
so as i have had many a tuned road bike i would say 95,97ron is all you really need on the road.
so save yourself some money.
on some cars the more octane in petrol makes them make more bhp,like our golf gti run sluggish on 95ron but if we put 97,98ron in it picks up and goes much better,
on a long run we put 97ron in everything
good points there… I must admit I’m sold on all the Shell advertising about the vpower 99 stuff… seems to make sense and I’m sure I can tell the difference… however… I’m getting better MPG out of the BP Ultimate than the Shell stuff - 170 miles to the tank on the BP and 155 out of the Shell…
m
