My friend is using tesco diesel oil 15w 40 for his bandit 650 every 3k…he sure if there says he used it for last 28k and has no problems yet…i am not sure if this will damage the engine in the long term…
wont hurt it at all… many people use rotella diesel oil in their wet clutch setups i.e. bandits etc.
no worries on it… personally I prefer the Mobil One Syn in my bandit…
I used ordinary 20W50 diesel oil in my FJ1200 and changed it every 2000K. Only cost me a tenner each time and the bike ran (and still does) like a dream. No problems at all. Older engines like the stuff and it is good for them. Important thing is to change it often and with a new filter every time.
High detergent diesel oils area bit of a problem in a bike. Fully synthetic oils are a bit of a problem in a bike, particularly with a wet clutch.
Neither are a particular problem if you change them every six months, though a semi-synthetic is probably better. (I’m told by a decent mechanic. No, don’t ask me why.)
Who told you that?
Silkolene Pro4 Fully Synthetic all day long for bikes with wet clutches:cool:
i personally wouldnt put any car oil in my bike. they may be the same grade oil but the addittives for cars and bijkes are differant which means they protect the engine differant; the engine may run fine but wont last as long if you were puttin in proper motorbike oil in. disel engines run completly differant to the like of petrol enigne do aswell so wuill do slightly differant jobs.
puttin bike oils in a car wouldnt be a bad thing as it has the additional additives. i personally stick with puoline sport 4 (semi) or syentec 4 + (fully) yes they maybe more money but if it looks after it more i dont care really. 
*puppy
Shouldn’t use fully synthetic oil in a wet clutch bike, it will slip as the friction modifiers are just too slippery. A wet clutch in a bike is not designed to work in fully synthetic oil and a slipping clutch will soon become a burnt out clutch.
*
Who told you that?
Well, in my case, a good independent bike mechanic. Reckons he changes more clutches in bikes using fully synthetic oil than in those running semi synthetic.
As most of his customers are head bangers, it’s probably not just riding style.
I’m sorry but I don’t believe that for one minute.The likes of Mobil 1, Putolene and Silkolene wouldn’t still be in business if their motorcycle specific fully synthetic oils were causing damage to bike clutches.Smells like sticky stuff to me;)
I agree. I use Mobil 1 15-50 fully synthetic (bike specific oil, can’t remember the name) in my Dax Rush with Hayabusa engine (runs hotter and harder than the same enigne in a bike), even with about 180 lb ft of torque on the clutch is doesn’t slip. TTS and Big CC both recommend fully synth oils in modified and standard engines. Everybody I know uses fully synth oils in their bike engines in cars, cheap mineral oils just don’t last long enough being shared with the gearbox and high temps in the enigne.Even my little Kwak ZX6R has Castrol Power 1 fully synth oil in it, makes a difference to how quiet the top end is
You probably should not use fully synthetic car oils as they do contain friction modifiers and other additives that would coat the clutch plates.
That said I have read on the chain gang forum (BMW F650) that quite a few of them have used the Mobil 1 car stuff without any problems.
Finally despite what it says on the bottle there is only one Fully Synthetic Oil available and that is Mobil 1. All the others are just semi synthetic. The reason a court case in the USA that decided that any modified mineral oil could be label synthetic. This came from a Silkolene chap.
So when Silkolene specify that their Pro4 is …
“100% Ester synthetic racing 4-stroke engine oil for all high performance sports bikes, super bikes and production racers. API SF & SG, JASO MA, CCMC G5 or G4”
They are lying to us? :w00t:
Correct. It would seem that the only place were the old labelling still holds out is Germany apparently. There if you pick up anything but Mobil 1 it will not have the wording of fully synthetic.
Mobil attempted to sue Castrol in the US about the wording of fully synthetic on Castrols’ oil, unfortunately Castrol manage to persuade the court that their definition was correct.
Where’s the evidence of this Kev?
I find it hard to believe that Oil companies would label gloop up so ficticiously;)
I use Flora
Recently, Mobil accused Castrol of reformulating its synthetic by substituting other basestocks in place of its synthetic polyaphaolefins (PAO’s). Castrol Syntec is a hydrocracked oil. That’s right, Castrol has replaced the PAO synthetic base stock with hydroisomerized petroleum base stock. Hydrocracking, as it’s called, is the highest level of petroleum refining. Castrol isn’t even a true synthetic yet Castrol ended up winning the battle when the National Advertising Division of the Council of Better Business Bureaus ruled that Castrol could still market its oil as “synthetic” despite their new formulation. Basically, they expanded the definition of synthetics to include Group III hydroprocessed petroleum oil. This high profile case took place because synthetics are recognized as the market’s best hope for growth. Synthetic oil sales have outpaced petroleum oil sales by a wide margin and the gap continues to widen every year. Consumers are getting smarter and demand the best for their vehicles! Read the full story on the Castrol debacle in our informative articles section. Additionally, just as soon as Castrol won this battle, several other major oil companies jumped in and came up with hydroprocessed motor oils of their own and labeled these products to be “100% synthetic”, when they still are primarly Group III hydroprocessed petroleum oils!
Basically it is a legal argument on what a synthetic oil is. As far as a chemist is concerned hydrocracking does not constitute a synthetic product.
In the early stages of an engines life when it is tight and needs the best oils to minimise friction, short oil changes may be helpful in lengthening the time the engine takes to bed in…this may be good it may be bad…
Synthetic oil will last for years but in reality with it being thinned with petrol all the time it will rarely last beyond 15k miles, so 12 k intervals are more than enough…if your really keen change the filter every 6k miles and that will suffice…
Wet clutches will work fine with Synthetic oil…full stop…they will work even if you use additives such as silk 50 and other such additives…dont believe a word about them making your clutch slip…your clutch will slip if you have burnt it, or worn it out…
Synthetic oil in older engines will increase wear and shorten an engines life…use a thick non synthetic oil in older engines, it is available…
Synthetic oils can make engines vibrate more…
just done a bit of research on this…on synthetic oils some people drive over 100,000 miles without an oil change just changing the filter using a very high performance filter and top up every 5000 miles…
You’ll never know what’s really in an oil, all the manufacturers claim they use Ester or PAO base stocks and then some extra fluffy wording on top of that, it’s all bullshit but you can see from your own experience which oils work best.
In my Dax a basic semi-synthetic (basically a minerial oil with a few extras) will last 1000 miles then the engone sounds rough, gearchange is notchy, clutch starts to get a bit grabby. By 2000 miles it feels unpleasant to drive it.
Using Mobil 1 15-50 fully synthetic (summer, track days) or Silkolene 10-40 SX pro fully synthetic, the oil lasts a lot longer, I get 2000 miles before it starts to make the gearchange notchy and the clutch grabby. I change it at 3000-4000 miles or a bit sooner if I have a track day coming up.
Same thing with the bike, Putoline synthetic oil is probably a low-grade oil because the Kwak sounds noisey when using it and it also seems to evaporate, so not very stable at high temps. Castrol Power 1 Racing on the other hand made the engine much quieter and it lasts longer, needs less topping up. So given they are the same viscosity to start with the Castrol must be a higher quality oil but both are marketed as being equivelant and cost is similar.
Never heard of synthertic making an engine vibrate more, not talking about your washing machine are you 
I work in the motor trade and at first i would have said no way use motorbike oil because it has additives that break up you clutch dumpings along with other qulities I even rung a guy i know that works for mercedes who recently had a sample of our oil tested because of a blown engine on one of our dustcarts he said you should only use motorcycyle oil because its has special additives which i am inclined to believe but then i read this
http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/oiltest1.htm
Seems u can use motoroil apart from there was no mention of clutch dust etc only that there was more iron on one of the tests
beware thousing the wrong oil will invalidate you warranty on newer bikes