The painwork on my fazer is coming off a bit on the downpipes. I’ve got some heat resistant spray for the downpipes but it’s not that great, it give off a very matt finish and the fazer downpipes had a bit of gloss to them previously. I’m thinking it was probably power-coated. probably.
Thing is I haven’t got access to powder coating equipment, also as I’m not mechanically minded I’d rather not remove the downpipes from the bike to paint or send off to be powdercoated.
So I’m faced with downpipes that could possibly begin to corrode, my inability to remove the downpipes.
I’m thinking a solution for me might just be cover my bike up with newspaper, sheets and so on and give the pipes a blast with the heat exhaust pain and just live with the matt finish?
If anyone is in the know I’d be very grateful for any tips on dealing with this issue.
Page 19, you can get these at B&Q. It is handle all the surface area of the pipes leaving them bare metal. Wipe the surface with meths until there is no dark residue on the cloths.
Then immediately spray once dry with VHT (very high temperature 600°C) exhaust enamel available from Halfords. Follow the instructions and give it several coats. Your pipes will end up looking like the picture below.
I doubt that powder coating would have the temperature resistance and would probably burn off very quickly. And spraying whilst on the bike would not give you 100% coverage and the remaining rust would quickly spread under the paint.
Otherwise you could get replacement stainless steel downpipes from Motad:
Similar to Kevsta, I used to spray my old GS500 downpipes, but they were an absolute doddle to take off.
I just used a wire brush to get any corrossion off and used the same high temp paint from halfords. I got it down to about half an hour from start to finish so used to do it routinely when they started to look messy.
Worked a treat and the downpipes lasted ages longer than they would have.
Defo have a go at getting them off for a proper finish.
If you really can’t get them off then get a small wire brush to get off the worst of what you can reach and maybe some wire wool (wearing decent gloves) to rub down the backs that you can’t get to otherwise. Then do the newspaper trick but take your time and try to work the paint all around them - it may even be better to buy a tin of high temp paint (also halfords) and then you can use a brush to slowly work it into all the surfaces.
Take em off, its easy peasy. Did it on a few bikes, used BBQ heat resistant paint, was the only paint that didn’t peel or crack. Alternatively, wrap em, its pretty trendy now and looks cool.
Check out the Fazer Owner’s Forum, they have a sticky on it - Click here
I’ve not done it myself yet, but apparently the header nuts can break quite easily if in bad shape, which means a big job getting them out. So be very careful taking the pipes off… more on it in the link above.
The trick with header nuts/set screws is usualy to crack them when the pipes and engine are hot then use Plusgas (or similar) to finish the job when they have coolled a bit. (Saves those nuisance burns.)
New gaskets? If you’re an engineer, every time you break a joint, use a new gasket.
If you sticking your hand in you’re own pocket, how much are they/are the old ones still looking good?
I seem to be pretty terrible when it comes to any slightly mechanical stuff, I spent about 5 hours once just trying to get the rear wheel aligned properly after taking the wheel back for the chain. I’ve never worked on anything properly and all my jobs have been behind a desk.
I might give my uncle a call and see if he’ll help me.
dont wrap em as terry says, no good for rusting pipes will hold any water etc onto pipes.
it is poss to spray em on bike, depends how good a job you want, will suffice for a while but to do iut properly take em off.
give the nuts a good spray with wd40 let it soak in,
then give them a little turn to tighten them then loosen them,
if there that bad buy some new studs only couple quid
