Oxford Heated Grips

I knew that buying a set of heated grips would see the end of the cold weather. With any luck, they won’t need to be fitted now until late this year and will remain in the wardrobe until then.

By which time it will be too late to take them back if they don’t work;)

A small price to pay for having good weather so early, surely?

Why not just fit them now so they can be ready to go whenever you need them?

I bought some about 2 weeks ago just as it was really cold :slight_smile: but then started to get a bit milder :frowning: … One of the best things I’ve ever bought for the bike though, they’re fantastic & get really hot!! :slight_smile:

Mine are great…however they seem to be a little loose round my throttle tube and then when they get hot whatever adhesive I use melts and they start slipping. Because they’re a solid tube it’s no use gripping harder to stop them slipping, so it makes riding a little ‘interesting’. Short of supergluing them on, I’m really not sure what else to try!

Yeah, I was going to give this a crack at the weeekend.

I searched the forum and found this thread:


Which included this diagram for wiring them so that they can’t be switched on without the ignition on:

I’m no auto electricain, and have a couple of questions someone may be able to help me with…

So, I think I need to buy the relay and three wires, including one thick enough to carry 5 amps, and one thin wire 0.5 amp max. What sixe should the other one be?

How do I identify a wire that is only live with the ignition on?

And how do I “connect” my 0.5 amp max wire to the wire that is live with the ignition on?

Is there anything in particular I’ll need, tools wise?

Well my head hurts… You’ve managed to take a simple process and write it out like it’s rocket science! :w00t:

A wire that is only live with ignition would be the live feed to your horn, tail light, head light etc… or use the wire that comes out of your fuse box just after the ignition fuse.

You then connect this wire to the switch pole on the relay, and connect the other switch pole to ground - either the negative battery terminal or a chassis bolt etc…

Turn the ignition on and off (turn your key) to check the relay closes - you should hear it click or feel it.

Then cut the positive wire from the heated grips that connects to your battery. Connect either end of the cut to the other two terminals on the relay.

I solder and heatshrink all the connections but you could use crimps and spade terminals.

I guess I see the point of not having to switch the bike on but would this not put extra strain on the battery? If its cold and you have warm hands it would suck if you couldn’t start her up without the good old bump and pray manoeuvre.

:ermm: Change of plan, I’m taking it to the garage round the corner. :blush: