LB has just published a step-by-step on how to change your brake pads; saving you money and time.
http://londonbikers.com/article.aspx?uid=535e492e-531f-4c1e-8b6e-c3dc38180338
Jay,
Great article, would add its worth checking thickness of disc’s are with in tollerances and that the disc surface are not corroded or scored, couldn’t see this in tht article, but was reading at work so may have missed it.
Agreed, A Good article. Although I don’t agree to your step 6. Pushing the cylinder back should be done with the old pads in place, A vice or a brake cylinder pusher. little point in risking damage to new pads or contaminating with greasy fingers 
Thanks for the feedback guys! I have adjusted the article accordingly.
That’s really cool - thanks Jay - perfect for those of us with no idea what bit of the bike to start at… but know what a spanner is!
A great idea - didn’t realise there was an oil / filter one up too! Looking forward to any more, hate to pay for jobs that I know I should/could be doing myself…
I’ve just read your article, very clear and concise, as someone who has done this many times I only wish it was that simple all the time, it might be worth mentioning a check on the seals at the same time, as this is easy to do without pads in (outside dust seal can be pushed out a bit or even come out completely / this is even more likely for bikes used throughout winter).
Some sliding calipers will also require re-greasing on the two slids (normally inside rubber boots) and may well have a spring plate in the top which can be cleaned at the same time.
when fitting the new pads you can also smear a little copper greas on the backs if no shim is fitted and this will stop the squilling noise you sometimes get.
I liked your summery on doing the caliper bolts up, I’d also add, don’t be tempted to grease them; fit them dry & clean, also don’t ever try replacing them with nice colour matched anodised ones (yes I’ve seen it before).
Make a dvd jay u know u want to!!!
Thanks Sutcir. The aim is to start building up a database of useful DIY guides for home maintenance, which means keeping it simple so people aren’t put off, but yes, having this additional information should also be available. I’ll probably end up linking this thread to the article so people can see further comments.
In the future, we’ll have a dedicated area for home maintenance guides, and we’ll do it more professionally, for now this was just me needing to do my pads, and I thought it would be good to try and document it as I went along. There’s a lot of room for improvement, but it’ll come with time!
Top article Jay. One thing I’d suggest though is using an old toothbrush (or at least someone elses!) to clean the calipers when the pads are removed. It’s a lot easier than using a rag.
nice article Jay
Excellent idea guys. Nicely depicted. The brakes and oil changes are something many of us would benefit from knowing.
I should so another one about removing the fairing from an FZ6 
Attempted it last night but the plastic screw heads are all threaded from last time I did this. A trip to buy some new plastic screws and an ‘awkward’ screw remover kit me thinks.
hello
i think you should cleen the pistons before pushing them back as this will stop you forcing the brake dust in to the seals. and the pistons sould move by hand (no pry bar). torquing the bolts is very important to avoid streching them and making them weak. and some also need locktight. putting greese on the slide pins is good but it needs to be rubber safe. changing your own pads will save you mony if you get it right !!! 
welcome to lb juggernaut
interesting name why did you pick it?
introduce yourself in the newbie section you’ll get a warm welcome.
i will never tell 