Mileage and engine size


I’m no longer working in London instead I commute from Enfield to Slough 7 days a week is milage on a 800cc fazer something to worry about. Should I be keeping a eye out for another engine. I keep to the service intervals but that doesn’t guarantee a long engine life. What mileage should I start to worry?


If you are doing that sort of mileage every day and keeping to the service intervals for oil & filter changes you should see at least 100,000 miles before you hit any engine problems. Your daily journey ensures that no nasty combustion by-products are building up in the oil and, consequently, the oil does the lubricating job it was designed to do.


I’ve got over 40k on a 600 Fazer without any issues. As @jjmurphy says, keep on top of the services and you should be ok.
You might want to look at a shaft driven bike to save bit of hassle of keeping a chain lubed but you could get a Scottoiler to help with that.


Most of the engine wear will occur when the engine is cold (engine oil too thick) or when the engine is over heating (engine oil too thin), even with multi-grades this is a problem. The theory is the longer your commute the longer (mileage wise) the engine should last, we’ve all heard that motorway miles don’t do so much harm to engine life as in town miles and its a sound theory. The grade of oil will be more critical to engine life here than the frequency of the oil and filter change, high mileage vehicles have longer service intervals between oil and filter changes than lower mileage vehicles.

I wouldn’t worry about the engine until such times as a fault occurs and then treat that fault accordingly. Critical engine failures do not occur suddenly they are the result of neglecting the tell tale signs of pending doom.

How much longer will that engine last will depend on the condition of the engine now. 17,000 miles per year shouldn’t be a problem for any engine especially since 12,000 of those miles will be motorway. I’ve heard of many motorcycle engines achieving 250,000+ miles, that’ll give you well over 10 years commuting at that rate.


Stick to your service schedule and you won’t have a problem.

Alternatively buy something like a Deauville or VFR750 if you want something uber reliable.


Thanks I’m sticking too the service intervals I really don’t want to cause bike I’ve got it just how I like it. So by the sounds off it I’ve nothing to worry about. If I was to upgrade I would get the fz1 and swap parts over to save cost. Just can’t wait till spring so I can take the really long routes home there are some love country roads out here :disappointed_relieved:


I tend to change my oil every 3,000 miles with the filter being changed on every other one. My Tiger 1050 has done 51k now and no signs of problems.


Fazer 800 is basicly a sleeved down 1000cc
so the engine is as strong as you could want just stick to the service intervals
keep a spare set of brake pads, cables ,etc you never know when they will go
i also changed to a washable air filter (K&N , Pipercross) & have two one in one cleaning
it works out cheaper in the long term.

you will be clocking on the milage so depending on how long your doing it for the value of your bike will drop to a point where is only worth spares parts value

To give you some idea im currently doing 50miles each way 5 days a week i change the oil & filters every other month

i have done 76 miles each way for nearly 2 years

i worked out i need to change my bike every 2-3 years buying a used low milage replacement


There is a CBR600F4 on YouTube with over 300K on it and a member on here with 100K on his Bandit. There is no reason why the engine shouldn’t go the distance if it’s maintained.


Good idea for the cables I’ll order some now was even thinking to order some clutch plate too just in case


Zip tie a new clutch cable alongside the current one. A lot easier to swap over at the side of the road than wait for recovery


Wise, that’s a decent mileage you’re putting on your bike, but can I ask what you do about the valve clearance checks… Follow religiously, or don’t bother at all???


definitely bother with the first one


The thing with valve clearances is after the first 10 to 20,000 miles the valves, followers and camshaft lobes become properly bedded in which is when they are most likely to be out of tolerance.

Also critical is the camshaft chain and camshaft chain tensioner inspection for wear, failed camshaft chain tensioners seem to be common place on certain high mileage engines.

A cylinder compression test can be a good idea to determine the condition of the cylinder bores, piston rings, valve seating, valve guides and seals etc. All the bits hidden deep within that you cannot see.


valve’s checked once a year after the first 20k miles & ive only ever had to do the shims once in a very long time


i tyr to buy bikes that dont have a hisotry of cam chain tension problems
i must say i brought the BMW F800 as a stop gap & kept it for nearly 2 years
it sometimes sounds like a diesal & it rattles like fuck, its what the early ones do so its never bothered me
i most probaly will get some smart arse try it on when i do get around to selling it but hey ho thats life