Lights. just a quick one

hi guys, after tinkering a little bit with my bike the other day, i decided to replace the 35/w headlamp bulb to a 45. this is because last week en route to work in the dead of night, my vision seemed somewhat dim. last night on the same route, the standard beam was brilliant. however, when clicking on my full beam, it seemd too bright? and i couldnt focus properly on the road ahead, leading me to ride the whole way on normal beams. not a major issue i guess, i was just wondering from more experienced folk, if this bulb could be too bright given the reflective qualities of the back of the headlight unit, and if so, any remedies short of popping the stock bulb back in?

dim standard beam, or overwhelming full beam?!!

thanks in advance for help and suggestions

Just use your standard beam if that works well for you?

I imagine the headlight is designed to throw the spread of a 35w bulb… You could try tilting down a bit but then your dip beam would be even more dipped…

Also I’m sure it’s fine, but have you checked your 125 is able to put out the extra 10w of power?

The Yamaha Owners Club has loads of YBR owners that’d be happy to help.

cheers guys
conrad- it can cope with the extra output , but what you’re saying about the spread of light makes a lot of sense

columbo- that sounds very helpful indeed!

A thread from the b king forum. its to do with HID but similar to changing wattage bulbs :slight_smile:

totally over the top informative but the pics help

That link calls for a login.

The YBR has very little spare electrical generator capacity. According to the specs in the Yamaha workshop manual in standard trim the can only just generate enough power to light the standard bulbs, indicators, brake light, instruments and supply a spark at peak generator revs.
You also need to check that the wiring and the headlight itself can cope with the extra amps and extra heat generated.

Ok. My reply may be a little bit larger than you’ve expected, but i have huge experience in lightning systems, thus have plenty info to share.

Part 1. I definitely not recommend you to buy 55W HID kit because of 3 main reasons:

  1. In fact, there will be almost no difference in real light output if the correct color temperature HID will be chosen. Most of the declared 55W HID bulbs in fact are typical 35W bulb that will draw more current from 55W HID PSU reducing it’s lifetime. Many 55W kits in fact have absolutely same PSU as 35W models and all this wattage is bullshit. In this photo you can clearly see that “55W” DDM ballast is in fact same as 35W noname “Prolumen” China ballast. If the ballast that feeds the lamp is 35W, where 55W output comes from? Nowhere, just a marketing trick!

  1. Typical 35W HID will be much brighter comparison to original 12V60 bulb. Real 55W HID in this case is something that could be described as “too much”. It’s not the situation where bigger means better. Some part of users that changed the HID to 55W model is enjoying not real increasing the power of the whole system but a new lamp or ballast, which works well. In contrast to the poor 35W ballast before. Because xenon systems is something that continues to evolve and improve nowadays. It is obvious that new generation 35W HID will be brighter comparison old generation model manufactured three years ago with same wattage lable.

  2. You don’t need to choose HID kit by well-known brand parameter. They’re all made based on same design at same factories in China. All extra that you’ll pay for the name is useless. Just check the previous photo and try to find the difference. Also, if the photo you’ve provided is real product image, it’s 35W ballast for sure. 55W ballasts are bigger and need additional heatsinks.

Also using the specified lens system removes inevitable glare in low beam mode:

BTW, this is the reason why need to paint the reflector in matte-black even after lens HID kit installed.

And i’m not yet talked about fact that such universal-fit HID tubes hi/low beam moving system is much more frequently breaks. As you need to move entire bulb instead of lightweight shutter.
You’ll never have such important hi/low light clear boundaries without lens and shutter and will blind oncoming drivers with HID tube only

Yeah, it’s not that easy as installing the different lamp but it’s easy. All you need is owen or a hair dryer, pipe cleaner to remove the chrome from reflector and 1 hour of additional time needed for installing just the HID lamp instead of 12V60.

Don’t forget that HID color temperature is something that DOES matters! I personally recommend 4300-5000K. It will be brighter comparison to same wattage 6000+K kit. That’s specific of human eye reception.

I may continue talking about headlamp designed focal points and that if you decide to put the HID lamp only, it needs to accurately match the lighting source point even if lowest possible 4300K HID is chosen without lens to maximally match the OEM reflector geometry…

I know we’re not talking about HID kits in general but the “brighter” bulbs can also cause the glare effect as shown above. :slight_smile: that was alot of copy past :smiley:

wow. thanks for the input, very very informative. after fishing about online it seems its a common problem with the ybr so something deffinately needs to be done. and soon. those dark winding country roads can be testing at the best of times, even more so when you can only see 8 ft infront of you

Jamie why are you talking about xenon kits?

All Terry has done is swapped a 35w halogen for a 55w lamp.

Read the last sentence :wink:
A similar effect can happen. 35w bulb has light beams that are designed to work with the bulb unit shape. A brighter bulb will scatter more light thus blinding oncoming traffic and possibly diminishing the direct beam that you need and turning it into a wide arc that isnt as good.

Yeah sorry didn’t read it properly. Toooo many words :stuck_out_tongue: