Lens Chat

I think I was editing as you posted. I’m aware of the 1.6 crop factor on my T3i, in some ways that doesn’t really matter to me, everything is relevant. I’m used to 18mm being my ‘widest’ but 18 on a 1.6 crop (29mm) so 15 (or 24mm) would be quite nice. Going up to 85 would be quite an improvement from 55 too. (Or 88mm to 128mm)

Hey Andy,

Have a read of the link below. Rockwell points out that awide angle is not really the lens you want for a walk about lens. With verywide lenses you need to get VERY close to the subjects and it isn’t a goodsolution to “fit everything in”. Most beginners make the mistake of shootingsubjects too far away (or with not enough zoom). Good shots of people areusually closeups where you can see the character in the subjects face. I usemy 24-105 on a crop body and VERY RARELY want anything wider, and that is verymuch the right lens for a full frame camera.

Wide or ultra wide is a fun thing to play with but it probablyisn’t the norm.

http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/how-to-use-ultra-wide-lenses.htm

Regarding the 15-85, the biggest problem with that is that itswitches to f5.6 quite quickly as you zoom. So – you can use f3.5 at 15mm butzoom to about 50mm onwards and you’ll be at a maximum f5.6. Compare that withthe nifty fifty (f1.8) and you’ll find the 50mm prime is a helluva lot faster(4 stops is A LOT and will have dramatic impact on depth of field etc). Youprobably already experienced that on the 70-300 which is a limitation forsports shots. It is also a EF-S lens which means it can’t be used on a fullframe camera – so that will impact it’s value.

Take a look around for a used Canon 17-40f4Lif you want to play with wide. Then for an everyday walkabout lens get the24-105mm. Remember, if you buy those lenses used, they will hold their valuewhereas cheap lenses don’t…

Thanks, I’ll have a read of that later.

For a moment, I wondered if I should perhaps looks at full frame DSLR, but the cheapest is still up over £1,400.

I’m beginning to wonder if I should just wait. I was only looking to spend a few hundred on a step up from stock. Maybe you guys are just at a higher level than me, so expecting more from a lens (and so would spend maybe four figures)

:ermm:

Buy used! many a bargain to be had, particularly in the camera department, lenses hold their value better. for full frame a 5DmkII would be the best choice. mkIII has been out a while so you might start seeing them at reasonable prices.

or there is this?

http://www.cameraworld.co.uk/ViewProdDetails.asp?prod_code=PON13B000044&Prod_name=Used+Canon+EOS+5D+Body+%28Excellent+Condition%29&CAT_CODE=35&SUBCAT_CODE=278

and L series doesn’t have to be 4 figures.

http://www.cameraworld.co.uk/ViewProdDetails.asp?prod_code=PON13A000061&Prod_name=Used+Canon+24%2D105mm+f4+L+IS+USM+%28Mint+Condition%29&CAT_CODE=35&SUBCAT_CODE=280

plenty More to choose from too.

Ditto on buying used - you could literally buy a decent lens, use it for a year or two and sell it for the same money.

Not sure why you are now talking full frame - I think too much information may be overwhelming you, so yes, take a step back and wait. Decide what is most important to you and what problem each solution solves…

If you DO want full frame, the 5D is a great choice, the 5DMkii is much better. Take a look for something like this (although not saying buy something from Edinburgh on Gumtree)

http://www.gumtree.com/p/for-sale/canon-eos-5d-mkii-inc-24-105mm-lens-kit-digital-boxed/1009153336

Hi Andrew and all,

To explain, I got the 15-85 because so many people slate the kit lens as being “bad”, and the 15-85 as being “almost L quality”. From the reviews I expected noticeable sharpness and quality improvements, but in the end the difference was hard to see - mostly just the USM being a nice to have. My point being that you don’t always get what you pay for with lenses, or much extra for the money … though some lenses are great. Like has been said before, best to try them out first if possible.

Arguably the same may be the case for the 50mm 1.8 vs 1.4 as per this guy’s review on Amazon -

http://www.amazon.co.uk/review/R36T7YOV2GBTFP/ref=cm_cr_pr_viewpnt#R36T7YOV2GBTFP

Cheers

Alex

Remember that these lenses will have a different range on a crop camera. The 17-40 f/4L is a great wide angle on a full frame (I used one for a while, then a 16-35 f/2.8L, both lovely on the 5D I had on loan). On a crop body it’s just a short walkabout lens - the bottom end is the equivalent of 28mm…

Totally agree on buying used though.

-simon

To summarise:

Andy, you’ve already got a decent range of lenses right? 18-55 and 70-300 right?

What I’m gonna suggest is that

a) you go out for the day with your camera and stock lens, but tape the barrel at 50mm and see how your day works for ya. Probably not great. A 50mm has merit but be sure you want to work at the range enough to spend ANY money getting one specifically. don’t be swayed by the “every photographer should have one” nonsense. I like my Sigma 1.4 but not sure spending £300 on it changed my life any. Mine’s a portrait lens, end of. I had a 1.8 Canon plastic lens and hated using it because it’s noisy and sluggish to focus. BUT still represents good value. Mine fell apart - literally - after dropping it a foot onto the carpet.

b) Upgrading your current lenses will be nice to do but again might not really have that wow factor when you look at the images. So I’d go spend the money on a lens outside your current range for max ‘wow’ factor and that initially mentioned 2.8 wide zoom fits the bill.

Landscapes will look awesome through it. wide is good good good for landscapes.

That way you have a proper good range of focal lengths to operate over, spend a year and then see which focal ranges you really use - then spend money there first.

If you are serious about this - spend money on a good sturdy tripod, a head which works, and a good flash gun.

Filters? Yeah obviously post processing options have removed the importance of using filters nowadays in most cases. Polarisers are the big exception because they basically remove reflected light - so glass darkens and reflected images disappear (often impossible to do in post) and this optically darkens the sky and water for portraits (a little easier to reproduce in post).

Just remember that slapping a £40 filter on the front of your camera instantly reduces the optical properties of that lens to that of the filter. I see lots of people with L glass worth over a grand with a £50 Hoya filter on it.

Yes they offer some protective qualities but so do good lens hoods and of course lens caps. I’ve never used filters for protection, and I’ve never smashed a front element.

Anyway, best we get a photo day so we can all start fingering each other’s lenses lol

Some good advice all the way through the thread, so thanks to everyone.

I actually picked up a Canon 50mm 1.8 for less than £70 on eBay, should arrive tomorrow. This will be more about seeing what F1.8 allows me to do.

I think right now, I’m kinda where Andrew says, I don’t know for sure I’ll appreciate a higher quality lens just yet, so perhaps thinking more of the WA lens to give me a decent selection, then see over time which I find myself using more and perhaps upgrade in that area. I will keep my eye on eBay (thank you saved searches) for a Canon WA though, at a good price.

Oh, and my zoom is actually a 55-250 IS lens, not 300. I would love to have a even higher zoom lens, but most sports venue’s have a 3" rule and the 250 is right on that all ready.

That raises another point. Has anyone been turned away from Wembley or other venue, due to your lens being professional/too big?

So, Canon 50mm arrived today, as did an e-mail saying I’d successfully bought a Canon 28mm f2.8! I’d thrown a few bids on eBay at very low prices, 99% of the time they’re outbid a few hours later. This one lasted the day or two and I won.

Interesting. I had the 28mm f/1.8 for a while and used it as a lightweight walkabout lens. I liked it a lot, and only got rid of it when I got my EF-S 18-55 f/2.8 IS.

Out of interest how much did you bid on them? And have you spent the day taking photos with the 50 at 1.8 with a single close up object and a really blurred background? (That’s what everyone does the first time they get a fast lens in the digital age ;-)).

Well, I didn’t get it until this evening, so no, not really used it. Took a few sample shots -

I like how I can focus on one or the other remotes and the other will be out of focus!

Oops, my mistake, it’s a 24mm 2.8, not a 28mm.

Good stuff - two good small light lenses so you can roam unfettered by large clumsy kit.

Don’t give up on the mega-wide idea though.

So Andy, since you have the 24mm, think about that being the wide end of the Canon 24-105 L F4. See if that feels too restrictive - it will give you a clue about whether you could cope with the 24-105 as your everyday lens (which is what I do). Generally 24mm is wide enough for me, but then I don’t do much in the way of landscapes (where wide works) or real up close and personal stuff (where again, the wide can produce powerful images).

All this talk of camera has made me want to go and buy something - maybe a new lens or the 6D body. Damn you Andy.

I love my 10-22mm lens :smiley:

I have a saved search on eBay so each morning I get e-mails on Canon 10-22mm lenses under £200. I think in all likelihood I’ll need to go up over £300 for one though. John Lewis Partnership Bonus gets announced in couple of weeks, if it’s good, I’ll perhaps treat myself :slight_smile: (There’s a very good chance I’ll break and just buy one in the next 7 days though)

Sorry Simon :stuck_out_tongue: If you buy something, be sure to let us know here :slight_smile:

The Canon 24mm arrived this morning, but the autofocus doesn’t work. :frowning:

Does anyone know how much that might be to be fixed? I’ve messaged the guy as it was listed as fully functional.

The guy does only have 4 feedback, but I’m not too concerned, it should be covered by Paypal if the worst comes to the worst.

Before you send it for a fix, try cleaning the electrical contacts (on the camera and the lens) with a rubber and fiddle with the AF/MF switch. IF neither of those things work, you might find a repair is uneconomical.

Indeed…a repair will cost a lot :-(. Send it back ASAP.