I’ve been to the OMC before attempting some DIY, and I came to the conclusion that with my skill level when it comes to mechanics at the moment it pays off to have someone doing it for me. And regarding the advice & support at the OMC, while valuable, it can vary a lot depending on how busy they are on that day, meanwhile the clock keeps ticking. I’ll consider that option once I’m a bit more savvy with spanners and bolts and the bits to change are not things as important as the brakes.
Brake fluid charge is rather high. Did my brakes, cleaned calipers, new pads, changed fluid in around 45 minutes, front and rear brakes… Cost to me, £20 for pads.
I'm more interested how you go through a set of discs in 24k miles?
PJ
I'm not so sure he has. One scam of the trade is to suggest a replacement for the next service and when the punter comes back and requests that replacement at the next service you don't have to justify why its being replaced!
Well; 2 things I know, the bike doesn’t brake at all(front), and the discs look and feel worn out. You can definitely feel a noticeable gap when touching them where the calippers grab the disc against the unexposed surface. The bike has been serviced there for 8 years, I wouldn’t think they have an interest to scam me. However you never know, I’m keeping a disc to measure it at home. As in how people can go through the same pads on 20k? Remains a mistery to me, maybe they brake with their feet or I use shit pads. I however give the bike a lot of use of all kinds (minus off road).
Its normal to have a lip on the inside and outside running edges of the discs where the pads come into contact with the discs. This is caused by the friction between the pads and the disc, most of the wear is confined to the pads but not all of it… Obviously all this is speculation since a proper diagnosis can only be made through a proper inspection. As I said earlier, it doesn’t matter what the discs look like, I’m assuming here they aren’t heavily scored or gouged, if the area where the pad meets the disc is relatively smooth the pads should bite, if the pads don’t bite as good as they used to the most likely causes are siezed/partically seized calliper pistons or, worn pads or, contaminated brake fluid. Normally if the discs are worn you’d have some feed back through the brake lever/pedal, worn discs warp and send a pulse through the braking system to the lever/pedal.
When was it last MOT’s, between the services? I only ask because if the brakes, discs or pads were either not serviceable or close to the service limit you’d have had an Advisory or even a Fail!
The bottom line is that discs should be doing far more than 24,000 miles.
Nobody gets 20000 miles out of brake pads, surely? I get something between a tyre and a service generally out of mine, so 4-5k? But yours had a few hundred miles in them on Wednesday.
I nearly did with the Bonne. Armstrong GG organic green brake pads, Mick at Essential Rubber recommended them. 18,000 on the rear and 15,000 on the front.
I get around 4k out of my pads with my commuting, lots of stop and go riding. Also a couple of tracks days will have given them a hard life. I had Honda OEM pads and had them down to 1.3mm of wear left. New Kyoto pads in and they are fine. Got another set ready for end of the year service.
With everyday commute use in central London? Or rather Sunday and long distance riding? The discs were at 4.386 mm by the way
WildBoy
A proper mix, that included at least one SS1000, many Fundays and a 22 mile each way commute M25, M11, A12, A13.
4.386 mm is serious premature wear for discs and if I was a gambling man I’d wager the improved braking performance was more down to 'one of the callipers being cleaned than anything else.
It could be, whatever. It’s been done now. It was the one piston being a bit clogged with debris, It was a mix of all. The important bit is that the bike now brakes as it should
